George: Each day during advent, one door is open at city hall, counting down the days until Christmas. There are of course many ways to visit these markets. You can travel on your own, rent a car and drive to the cities of your choice. The roads in Germany and Austria are first rate and well maintained, even in inclement weather but keep in mind how far it is from say Vienna to Nuremburg. With that in mind, you might prefer to take the train. Hopping on and off in market towns and cities, then hopping back on the train when you’ve seen it all in each place. There are land tours, companies providing coach rides from town to town. Someone else takes care of all the details for you and there’s the river option, several tour companies visit markets along major rivers like the Danube or the Rhine. You unpack once during the length of your journey.
Christmas markets are a hot tourism ticket even though it can be cold, windy, wet and snowy so if you go, dress warmly. Most visitors don’t seem to mind the weather, the ambience, the warm Gluhwein, hot coffee, they all seem to ward off the December chill. From Vienna in the east of Austria, we stop next in the western city of Salzburg, home of Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart, a music capital of Europe and home to this market on the Dam Platz, the square in front of the famous Salzburg Cathedral. The baroque cathedral is one of the most beautiful in Europe. Certainly, it’s the most impressive early baroque edifice north of the Alps. Above it, the mighty Hohensalzburg Fortress, the largest fully preserved structure of its kind in central Europe. The citadel is more than 900 years old.
Mozart was born here and lived here for several years. Today, the house is a museum. It’s on the Getreidegasse, Salzburg’s most famous shopping alley and packed at times like these. The shops have rod iron guild signs. It reminds Salzburg of the past when few people could read so the merchants made picture signs of their crafts to attract customers. But in advent, all roads lead to the market and to the ice sculpture and the ice skating rink nearby. And Salzburg has not forgotten the true meaning of Christmas nor has it forgotten its legends. In early December, St. Nicholas visits bearing gifts for young and old. But so too does Krampus, his darker side.
They appear to give out punishments to those who’ve been bad for the past year. Krampus and his band roam the streets of Salzburg. Krampus is clad in black with antlers on his head. He’s a devil alright. The roots of this character go back to pagan times. Austria is a catholic country now but Krampus is very much a part of the holidays as is St. Nicholas himself. For modern-day Christmas celebrants, the market is a blend of history and modern shopping.
Female: It’s magical. Salzburg is a wonderful city and to think the same streets that Mozart walked is amazing to me. I love Salzburg.
Female: I am totally amazed. I’ve heard about Christmas markets. My friends have been several times and brought me along. It’s beautiful. It’s wondrous, it’s magical, I am having a great time.
George: Cross the border into Bavaria in southern Germany, and you’ll come to Passau, a floating city on a peninsula. Three rivers converge here, the Danube, the Inn and the Iltz. Many call it the most picturesque town in Germany. It’s a fairytale town founded 2000 years ago. It’s been ruled by the Celts and the Romans. Passau later became a religious intellectual and economic power due to its location. There are quiet alleys with old world shops, saints on many street corners, the fortress Vesta over house and there’s this, St. Stephen’s Cathedral, a magnificent Italian baroque church from the 17th century. I think it may be the most beautiful church interior I’ve ever seen.
It houses the world’s largest church organ, 17338 pipes stretching from the rear of the church through the ceiling to the front altar. Cathedrals in Germany are called Dam. The Dam Platz just outside of St. Stephen’s is the new home of Passau’s Christmas market. It used to be held indoors until officials tore down the old structure that was its home. Now, it’s a 70 stall outdoor market like the rest but it’s smaller and less crowded. And it attracted the attention of two seasoned travelers from the United States.
Female: It really is an experience. I’m really thrilled and I had been wanting to do this for a number of years and I finally figured, it’s about time because, what I’m getting in now, I may never but it really has been a nice experience.
Male: This is the first time, the first meeting, I’ve been enjoying seeing it and I always enjoyed looking at the older cities and buildings and I’m amazed at how they have been able to construct them.
George: Of course, you can't shop every minute. You need to take a break now and then with a sausage and a Gluhwein.
Female: Better on the outside. Yes, a few toys for our children—handmade out of wood, wooden things and that’s why I like the little charming places like these.