Tapered Hair Cut Tutorial

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Reverse Blending Technique

Amy: We’re back with Ivan here on the Cutting Edge Hair Show. Hello Ivan.

Ivan: Hello Amy, how are you?

Amy: I’m— so good to have you back.

Ivan: Thanks for having me back, we had a whole lot of fun last time, we’re going to have even more fun this time.

Amy: Okay so who’s our model?

Ivan: Lloyd is our model; let’s turn Lloyd around so that everybody can see him. Lloyd is our model. What we’re going to do with Lloyd today is what we call a classic tapered men’s haircut. If you cut hair in the professional beauty industry for a hundred years and I hope you don’t, I’m not going to but if you do 99% of the men’s haircut that you cut will be some variation on a classic tapered men’s haircut.

Most men’s haircuts are a variation on the tapered style.

Amy: That’s almost all the facts.

Ivan: That’s almost all of them. We know that haircut, the back inside your taper, the top it’s layered and blended together. If we go down the block and around the corner over to Home Depot right now there’s going to be one dude with a ponytail, there’s a couple of bald guys but generally speaking whether they spike it up, slick it back, comb it over, spin it around or whatever back inside your tapered top is layered blended together.

If you’re good at this, you can go business anywhere in America with solid haircutting skills. This is classic barbering 101 are you ready to see this happen?

Amy: It is so important that you know how to do this.

Ivan: We’re going to use a technique called reverse blending. Reverse blending the idea is this. Instead of tapered layer and blend, three traditional steps and the toughest part of that is always the blending. The blending takes the greatest amount of time and it’s the hardest thing to do. Clipper guy says if blending is hard to do and blending takes a lot of time, let’s skip it, let’s not blend.

The “reverse blending” technique eliminates the blending step.

We’re going to give you a technique for cutting this haircut that eliminates what we agree is the hardest part of the haircut, how is that.

Amy: You’re all making it easy for everyone.

Ivan: I’m going to make everybody’s life easy. I’m going to make this quick, I’m going to share all the tips tricks and secrets, you got it.

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Ivan: What we’re going to do today is called backhand. We’re going to turn the clipper on, with the clipper on and the clipper running, we’re going to turn it backwards in our hand. A chord comes out between my thumb and forefinger and the blade sits back at the heel of my hand. I release my two bottom fingers and I insert my comb.

What do I have over here now?

Amy: It looks like you have Wolverine hands.

Ivan: I have three hands; I have one hand to hold the clipper, one hand to hold a comb and whole other hand over here to hold the hair with. I have actually seen this technique referred to as three hand cutting. Watch what we do. I’m going to do what I do watch what I do when I do what I do and watch what I don’t do.

I’m going to take sections of hair. I’m going to comb them. I ‘m going to hold them and I’m going to cut them. I’m going to comb. I’m going to hold and I’m going to cut and I’m going to comb, I’m goin to hold and I’m going to cut like that.

Notice, I don’t shut the clipper off. I don’t set the clipper down. I don’t transfer the comb form one hand to the other like I do when I cut with a pair of sheers.

Well efficiency is important. Remember, clipper guy does have 3 Guinness world record for cutting.

Amy: Most amount of haircuts in 24 hours and—

Ivan: Most amount of haircuts in an hour none stop straight through without a break that’s right. I do have three world records for haircutting speed but now we’re focusing on accuracy. Notice, combing, holding and cutting; combing, holding and cutting; combing, holding and cutting.

Amy: I can see the hair because you’re using a white comb.

Ivan: And you can see the guide in my fingers, I don’t shut the clipper off, I don’t set the clipper down, I don’t transfer the comb. Every time I pick up a section of hair, I’ve got a piece of the previously cut section in my fingers to serve as a guide. That sort of cosmetology school 101, we learn that day one that is a rule that will serve us well our entire career.

Now the challenge is, it’s time to cut this side and this doesn’t work. It’s hard to cut over the top of the head, the chords hanging in the way so we need to make two changes to our little situation here to cut— how do you know that?

Amy: I knew it. I just—

Ivan: You’ve been hanging around this haircutting stuff quite a bit. That’s right change number one, we turn the chair, instead of standing behind our client working from the hairline back as a right handed haircutter on the clients opposite side or left side. I’m going to stand in front of my client.

Since I cant’ stand directly in front of him because he’s got legs and I am too far back, I’m going to turn the chair slightly, I’m going to turn it heads and I’m functionally standing in front of my client.

Turn the chair and comb to cut the second half of the clients hair.

Change number one the chair and client does a 180. Change number two, same thing with the comb. Turn the chair, turn the comb.

Amy: Turn the chair, turn the comb.

Ivan: By turning the chair and turning the comb I can now stand here, I can pick up a piece of the previously cut section in my fingers to serve as a guide combing, holding and cutting. Combing, holding, and cutting. Combing, holding and cutting. Again working from the hairline back top that’s centered down around the head form, far enough that we intrude in. Let’s turn this so the camera can get a good look at this far enough that we can intrude into the top edge of what is later to become our tapered perimeter.

And you know what even if you don’t cut hair, if you’re watching that from 25 feet away, you know what needs to be cut and what needs to stya on the head, we create a guide, we follow the guide and we don’t cut the guy.

Amy: And that’s the stick.

Ivan: That’s the stick, you got it.

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