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In this video, DIY-DVD's Phil shows you how to perform a complete Vauxhall Corsa maintenance check with focus on the timing ...
belt part 5/9.
Tags:Vauxhall Corsa Workshop - Timing Belt Part 5/9,automobile help,automotive advice,car mechanic tips,car safety,corsa maintenance,corsa timing belt,timing belt maintenance,vauxhall corsa workshop
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Now the cam shaft and the diesel pump are timed up properly because the bolts are in the locking hose. And now what we're going to do, before we put the covers back on, just double check. Put your pulley back in the little pin, over the holes in the right place. And double check that your little mark is right next to the pin. That’s spot on. So providing you haven't moved the crank shaft, you have a result. If the crank has moved, one way or the other, more than tooth. Which is probably about 4 millimeters, maybe 5 millimeters, then you just take the belt back off and slip it around the tooth in the right direction. But because we haven't moved the crank shaft, it’s in the right place. So that’s brilliant. Now what we're going to do is tension it up. Back at the top. Tensioning the belt. Potentially very important, because if you over tighten it, disastrous results. So, what the book says is turn the crank shaft actually anti clockwise so that this part of the belt goes slack and allows the spring to take up the slack at its pretty set pressure. I’ll just show you a quick demonstration. This part of the belt, the longest stretch of the belt doesn’t want to go anywhere near, it should have some movement in it, doesn’t want to go anywhere near the outer edge of the casing. Otherwise it can slap the casing or wear through the casing eventually. Have it happened before. And same had have some jumped teeth when I tried to wind the crank shaft back to tension the belt up. So it’s all pretty good. I can't turn it more than, can't twist it more than 90 degrees. Which is a general rule of thumb on the longest stretch. Can't quite turn it 90 degrees, too tight. So that’s okay. So all I'm going to do is get some thumb pressure on it, that’s just the spring. Let it settle. And then we’ll going to tighten it up. And that is it, not as complicated as it needs to be. And we won't spend on gauges, even main dealers very much doubt. Alright, okay. Lovely. Got some movement. There is no way that’s going to jump any teeth or slap the casing. So that’s that. Spot on. So now, we're basically on the fitting up stage. So exactly the reversal of the removal. We’ll cover a few clips as we go. And then next basically is the timing belt fan. I think that will start and run first go. Make sure your springs are tight. Don’t like it jumping off that bit there. It’s got some tension on it, so it’s not going to go anywhere. Alright, okay. Right, engine mount first. So I’ll jiggle that back in now. I should have remembered to mention a personal little cheat that I use, I just did I out of habit, the engine mount in the bracket. The bottom bolt goes through the timing tensioner. The bottom part of the timing tensioner that is used as a hinge. The one that I put that little bolt in. that was out of the tool box. I just wound that in to it will held the tension in the right place while we push it forward on to the spring where our thumb and tighten up the big bolt which is in a slot. If you do it without putting that bolt in and you can use the engine mounting bolt, don’t forget it. If you put the engine mounting bolt, it will keep the plate lined up with the hole in the block. So when you take it out after you got the big bolt tension and you slide your bracket back on the top, you can still get the engine mounting bolt back through the bracket and through the timing tensioner and into the block. I should have mentioned it, but I didn’t. Which is the beauty of the DVD because I'm mentioning it now. Anyway, now the center bolt is tightened out. I’ll just unwind it, it’s coming out because its pinch up tight. So that can come back out. And now, you can slide the engine mounting from the top and get your bolts in your holes. So watch whole DVD for your tensioning job. I think I forgot details, but that’s good little cheat. The reason for it is when the engine is out and its back on the timing tensioner, you can't get to the bolt to tighten it up. So a little trick there. Well worth mentioning and noting. Now we'll get the car back down and get the bracket in and the bolt are in the hole. Okay, now we can deal with the engine mount back in from the top. So, once again, not a lot of room for anything at all. Now I can get the engine mount bracket back in. not a lot of room down there, so little bit of jiggling. Keep a grip on it because I just dropped it, this is the second time. So it might actually come back up from underneath, a lot easier than jiggling on the top. Alright, that’s it. It’s all fit and flash. Excellent. Put the bolts back in. once you get it wind, it won't fall off. One and two. Very fiddly. It helps to be ambidextrous. Just hold and start it in the threads. That's it. Now the moment of truth from underneath. I’ll lift the car up.