These are the two bolts, one, two. Captive nuts on the top, so you get them from underneath and wind the bolts out. And you can see the top of the bolts, top of the two bolts there on the engine mount. I've loosened them off from underneath. Alright, quick, something else I have to show you from the top is the water pump pulley. This is the water pump. If you got a leaky water pump, you take your belts off, take the air filter casing out of the way. And then you got one, two, three, four. It’s been done recently on this car which is why it’s so nice color and not covered in oil. So you can see what it is. So those four bolts, the water pump comes off and you scrape the metal block clean with sandpaper and you're going to be using Stanley blades to scrape the old gasket off. And stick the new one with some bit use of sealant. Clear silicon is the best stuff, I hate seeing that green and blue and orange silicon sticking out from joints.
Right. Okay, here. So now we're going to lift the car back up, I've got the engine supported under those two bolts. Take those three offs, whip the bracket off which I’ll show you on tape. And then we should be exposing the bolts for the timing tensioner and the belt can come off. So I’ll be back in a second.
I'm deciding to do what I'm doing. Alright, the bracket is ready to come off, come have a look. I'm going to show you the right sequence. So I've done those two bolts from the bottom with the speed brace and a long extension. There's two bolts that go in from the back, show you where it comes out. They already loose and unwind most of the way. So that one out, that’s the second one, take the bottom one off. Loosen the two parts of the bracket. Another one is mounting and bracket out of the way. It is a little bit fiddly. I might drop the engine a bit. I need an extra couple of millimeters. So see if we can. Alright so I levered the engine over a couple of millimeters to let that proper part of engine mount fall out. The bolts out of the bracket and out it comes. So there we go. Three big bolts. The other one is on the floor, so do it from underneath. Two bolts from the engine mount. Leave the engine over, bend in the pulleys with you leave the engine over and that water pump won't still come off because there's not proper clearance still. It means you have to go down quite a way. But now you can see the timing tensioner and the springs that holds it in place. Lovely. So I’ll get my spanners ready, cooking today. I’ll get my spanners ready and we're change the belt. Back in a second.
Alright, the belt is ready to come off, all the bolts are loosened, have a look. I've loosened that big bolt in the center. And this is the spring that keeps it pulled tight. So we push the top of the spring off over, don’t drop it. Doesn’t seem like a very clever idea, but it’s obviously quite good because I've never heard one dropping off and smashing things up. So now the whole pulley is loose, you can see. So what I'm going to do is unwind the bolt from the middle because I want to check the tension. So place that bolt there. Then that’s loose, the belt will come off. And this is the point where you don’t want to turn your crank shaft, take off the belt from all the pulleys. Here it comes, timing belt. It’s actually not in a bad condition, this timing belt.
Now we have axles, especially the petrol ones, there's about 400 million types of belt. It’s quite an exaggeration obviously. So when you get it, make sure you taper the same shape, same profile. Belt is the same length, just keep in your thumb and have a look, that looks okay. This is the right one for the car according to the book, but who knows. I will not destroy that yet, I will keep it in the bin until we know for sure. This one has not got any mark on it, so it’s directional. Some of them are.
Okay, let's check the tensioners. There's another bolt in the bottom of the block here, I don’t know if you're going to see it from here. But you’ve seen me undoing it maybe. So that’s that. There's the tensioner. There's a bolt through there, there's a pivot. The big bolt through there, it’s the locking nut. That hooks over the two springs and the little indent sits in the middle and it’s under tension. It’s under tension that way. Keeping the belt pulled tight.
So, you don’t always have to change the tensioners. But if there's any rocking in it, there's nothing. And it should be completely silent when you spin it. So that one can go back on. If you got any movement in it, or it doesn’t feel right, change it. Because if it let's go, then it will smashed the engine to bits. Alright, okay. What next. We’ll lift it up in the air and we’ll check the other outlet. There's another outlet pulley on the back. Which will be worthy of checking.