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In this video, DIY-DVD's Phil shows you how to perform a complete Vauxhall Corsa maintenance check with focus on the timing ...
belt part 2/9.
Tags:Vauxhall Corsa Workshop - Timing Belt Part 2/9,automobile help,automotive advice,car mechanic tips,car safety,corsa maintenance,corsa timing belt,timing belt maintenance,vauxhall corsa workshop
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Alright, the alternator is all accessible from underneath. Stick that up and have a look. The flat one there was the 14 millimeter bolt that we undid for the power steering belt from the top. You see that got slide up that slot behind it which allows the pump to move in either direction till you got it tight and you inch it up. In the other end of the bracket is a 12 mil, let's get the spanner on it, is a 12 mil bolt. Once again with a captive nut. This might come off a bit. That’s that. And then from there, to make my job easier, we got 14 mil there. That one. And 14 millimeter in the back of the alternator. And then spotted, we've got nice little bolt pinch drive square hole hook on to the bracket. So hopefully we can turn that and slacken the alternator. So while that’s kept slack, pull that off, remember the position and get it off. Remember the position of your belt and also, the belts are different thicknesses. As you can see. And different lengths obviously. So you can't get them in the wrong place, because they just won't fit. Alright, so that’s that. Lovely. Just about here is where I got to the two bolts on the bottom cover you can see exposing the next pulley down there. Because this is a diesel pump. Alright, okay. So that’s that. Lovely. And I get that pulley off which is the next job. You don’t undo the big bolt in the middle of the pulley, there's four little bolts along the outside and they are 12 mil. I’ll get a socket, get them undone and we’ll have a look at that. And then we get them all off and we're ready to stick the new one. Back in a minute. Okay, I've undone the four bolts around the pulley. And if they're too tight, the engine will turn. So a way around that is to put it in 4th gear or 5th gear. Get someone put their foot in the brake and lock it up. And then you would it up against the brakes for the gear box. You should be able to crack them off. And this one was quite rusted, so I used this like a wooden hammer. Bottom end of the pulley, just get it up. And that broke the rust that’s holding it on. Alright, I'm stuck with two nuts back in it, because the timing mark is here. Little pin point to the back of the pulley. So what we have to do is start with that. Wind It around. So we haven't disconnected anything on the timing belt system. Unless your belt snapped, you can just turn it around. You have to wind it pass compression, so I'm doing it nice and carefully. See that I don’t take any skin off. And there is the mark. Come and have a look at that, because it is minute. Tiny little hacksaw cut almost in the back of the pulley got to line up in the tip of that pin. So that’s either the top dead center or one rotation out. And we’ll check that by looking at the top in a minute. And the pulley has also got a little dowel, when I take the pulley off, I’ll show you that little pin there. So the pulley will only go in one position which obviously making the job a little bit easier. Alright, so that’s timed up. Now we’ll drop the car and we will check the timing marks from the top and mark them up. Okay, I'm going to time the top now. And the pulley on the bottom is half the size of the camshaft pulley and the diesel pump pulley. So basically, two revolutions on the bottom is one revolution on the top. So it’s possible, what happened to me, when we pull the pulley around. So the timing notch on the bottom, the top was 180 degrees out. That hole, behind that hole is a thread. One of the timing belt bolts goes straight through and wind in to a thread. And therefore locks that pulley in the right position. So don’t touch the starter motor or if you got it in gear still from locking the engine up to undo your bolts, make sure you take it out again. Alright, so that’s the top. I have to rotate it, the bottom pulley, another 360 degrees so that this hole came round the bottom. And that will now be the top and center. So that bolt goes in there. And this is a M8 thread, 13 mil spanner size. Make shift bolt. And there's another hole, there's a similar pulley down there, we’ll probably have a better look at it from below. But you can just see the bolt down there. And it’s the same set, except that pulley has got two holes in it. But one hole is much closer to that side than the other. One’s about halfway, the other one is right at the edge. And it is the one that’s closer to the center that the bolt will go through. Alright, so we’ll go lift the car and we’ll have a look at that. So that’s the camshaft secure and timed up. And the bottom pulley, when I rotate it around 360 degrees, I’ll pull the little pin.