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Okay, wheel is off, caps back on. Split pin back through, bent back over. I've got a touch with a wire brush, it’s amazing. Now I can actually see where the cable runs through, it’s all solid. Okay, that’s set. Now, wheel bearing. There's the front, that falls out when you take the nut out of the front. With the washer, you need the washer. Going to need the old bearing. I'm going to do it in the floor with a bit of wood to show you, you don’t need any special tools to do this job. Hammer. Long punch. Bearings spat out through the shoe which is unusual. It normally comes out together. There you go, actually its holding a notch. That’s the old one, we're not going to inspect it too much because the new ones are nicer to look at. Okay, when you got the bearing out, start by cleaning all the old muck from the inside. Not a nice job, but if your bearing has broken up, then there will be bits of bearing fragments sitting in the hub waiting to grind your new ones away. Plus we got to knock the old tracks out. I’ll show you in a minute. That’s the beauty of having gloves on. 5 quid for a pocket, box of a hundred, this gloves. Worth every penny. Alright. Okay, we rid free of all the old muck. Now there's some tracks in there, I’ll show you a new one without it getting dirty. That’s the front one. That's in there. That has to come out. And there's a bigger one in the back. And if you look inside the drum, there's some grooves cut. You see that? There's a notch, where that silver track in, there's a notch. I’ll point it with a chisel. There. That’s where your chisel go. You can see from the top. If you take your grease out, it’s probably easier. There's one other side. And that’s one. You knock the old one out. It wasn’t too much wrong with the bearings on this, but you can still see it’s got a nice different color in the track. So it's got some wear on it, but not excessive. Okay, same for the front. You can see, it has a little bit of a gap before where the track clear the ends. So I can do it in a level ground. It’s actually clear. And there's the front track, the old one. Okay. Well, I’ll be back in a second, because I want to give that a proper cleaning now. I’ll change my gloves, because we’ll be working with nice clean bearings and a new grease. Back in a second. Alright, I've cleaned it out. Have a look. Took the old grease out. It looks quite nice and tidy, ready to go. Now, new bearing, new track. Nice and smooth, lovely. Leave the bearing in the pot. New track, fat side towards the bottom. And what we're going to do is bash it back in, so what I've done is cleaned up the old track to use as a drift. This is over kill with this hammer, but I can't bolt it in and get a different one. So I can stick with this. I’ll rest it in the floor to get more solid. Has to be push in square, so one side. We’ll rotate the drum or you’ll crack the track. One thing to remember is before the new track hits the bottom it will just start to pinch the old track up. Yeah, nearly did it just then. So when you get to the point just before it bottoms out, you have three choices. You can either grind the edge off of your track to it doesn’t get pinch in there, because it’s an interference fit. Or, you can clean your puncher, if you got a good solid strong one, wipe the old crap off. And catch that on the edge and tap it down, like so. But if you slip and you scratch the track, which is possible, never actually done it. But you got to start again. So pull it out to the side that you’re working on, I'm putting pressure on that way. Nearly scratch it. No, that’s okay. Okay, that is pushed down flash. I’ll just show you the back, you can just see the word USA on the back track right down the center. And it is pushed up flash against the hub. Okay, I’ll tap the front one in. and then we’ll come back in a second, stick it back on, get it done. Sweating again. I've got the front track in as well as the back track. Clean pair of gloves. Here's the new back bearing. All I want to do is get a grease in the bearing. So it comes in a little packet grease kit. So I’ll run that round the track and the bearing. That gets squish in. we’ll squeeze between all the rollers, so here we go. I’ll got my finger on there, push it down the back of the rollers. Not essential, but rather than wiping it with a rag and then drop in the floor. There's the new shoe, so that little thing. A little bit grease on the inside of it, because this part spins around the stop axle of the car. So you don’t want any grip on that. Not that it’s likely to. Excuse me. Put it in the back and it should be pushable by hand. But we’ll just double check it with the push of the hammer. Wipe the dirt right off, grease back off. That’s it. So now it’s ready to go back on the car. Clean your washer up, new split pin in the kit as well. New front seal and now we’ll go around to the other side of the car and fit it back on. Let’s go. Okay, clean this side up, same as I've done on the other side. See the couple of grease around it. Hubs clean and dry of all the grease. So out of the packet, little bit of grease and we want that on the track on the back. Which will also be as smooth as a mirror, because it’s where the grease seal runs around. Okay. All set. Just go across you for a second. This is the hub with a new bearing in. push it straight on. Wonderful. Same thing with the front bearing. Run the grease around it. Alright, there's plenty on there. And there's still loads left in the packet. So what we do is fold the packet up and then squeeze the grease in. I'm going to put the new bearing in and squeeze the excess back off. So that’s pretty much, job done. Where's that washer? Don’t forget that. It only go on one way, see the shape of this, it’s got tooth sitting down. Wind it up. Okay, adjustable pliers, good for everything. Okay, make that up a little bit more than it needs to, to make sure the tracks all settled and it spins okay. That’s binding up with the bearings that's why it’s too tight. Slacken it off. And just pinch it up. Rock the drum. There's no play in there. And the other way you can do this bolt, wheel back on so you got bit more leverage to rock it as one as we did the other side. That’s fine. Okay, new split pin in the kit. If you can't remember what we did in the front, just tweak the nut slightly one way or another until the split pin wants to go in the hole. There we go. Pull it down. Bend the pin over. And normally you bend both bits over the top. So what I'm going to do is get is chop the bottom off and then put it back on. That’s that. Wheel bearing. Job done. Really super easy. Nice and quiet.