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Shocks bolted back up, wheels back on. So I’ll make sure that the back split pin right there, I’ll put through. The reason I’ll cut the bottom off and folded the pin up to the stub axle, is because the split pin being so big, if I put it inside ways when I put the dust cap back on, it will scrape the inside of the dust cap. So depending on what size of pin you use, it makes it why. Okay, all greased up nicely. Both wheels are turning. If I pull the handbrake cable, they both stop not really the same time. And the cable is returning back through the siders, which is good. So the handbrake is actually okay on this one. But I want to tighten it out a bit, because I'm coming up about seven clicks, I want about four really. This is the handbrake adjuster, cable adjuster. It’s covered in dirt. So what I'm going to do is I'm going to pinch that with a malgrip. Pinch it up with a malgrip. Mind your eyes. Clean that up with a wire brush. Some dust blower in there as well. It’s quite good, not rusty and destroyed. And then what we’ll going to do is wind it up, wonderful. Wind it up a few turns, when you got about half a turn at a time. Now this is another job that you must not overdo, because it will also cause your wheels to bind. Definitely not binding yet. I’ll make that adjustment more. There's a slight tension on that now, so that looks good. Now put the rubber cover just in there, to keep it patting the axle. So that’s it. That will take the handbrake up a few clicks. Always pull it on to make sure it releases. So I'm done. I think I’ll put a little copper grease over there with the brush so the brakes stays nice and clean the next time it has to be adjusted up. Alright, I don’t think there's anything else under here, not to mention the exhaust. Alright, okay. Let’s find something else to do. Wait a sec. Right, okay. Front headlights, front bumper and then I’ll explain how the radiator comes out because we didn’t see it clearly. Okay. I've already check that side and this one is already prep out. Got one, two screws that hold that in. also show changing the bolts as well. I’ll loosen that one because it has a little bit flex to get the headlight out. So I’ll just that down, don’t force it out because you can dent the corner going up. Just jiggle it that way as you saw. Alright, if you have a look down here take that off so you can get to the bulbs if you want. The air filter bit which is pulled off. Twist 90 degrees, out comes to the side like that bulb holder. Headlight clips can sometimes be a bit of a nuisance. Make sure it’s turned off if you're going to jam anything in there. So pop the screw off, it’s a three way plug, it will only go in one way. Indicator bulbs on the side. Rubber seal, bit sticky and this headlight motor angle control. Once again, all three ways, it can only go into one place. Alright, here we go. Headlight bulb. It’s got a little clip, and if you can see, as you push it down it force it across from underneath this hook. It comes over and there comes out your headlight bulb. That’s a normal H4 bulb. Three prongs, will only go in the hole one way. Do not touch the glass otherwise you will be putting a new bulb in. new one is reversal. Just clamp down over and under the hooks. Line your pins up on the rubber. Put it in the hole like that. Push it in and you have a new headlight bulb. I'm going to stick it out there for now. Here's your side light bulb. Literally just a push in cap less bulb, that’s called. And here's the indicator one, just pushes in. nice clean bulb holder. Right, so that’s how you change those bulbs. Now I'm going to remove all the screws on the grill. There's one, two. And that should, yeah, front skin is loose. Get have a look at the wheel lodge. There's a, wait a second. There's a cap, see that little cap, the cover just pops in. pop that out and in there, there's a 10 mil plastic nut which I've already undone and took off. You got this little one here, also holds the wheel lodge lining on. And that should release, take the trim out because the thread is part of that wheel lodge trim. Now here's the fun part of this. If you come in the front and go under, we’ll release it a bit more. Get to the rest of them. Okay, under here. One there. Same on the other side, obviously. One there that’s actually missing. And I've loose the one in the middle. That one there, another one there. And that one was missing. Alright, okay. Now, the bumper shouldn’t fall off unless you crash the car and bust the kit that holds it to the main bumper on. So another car and back in a second. I’ll show you the last two bolts. Alright. I've done the bumper and took all the bolts around it, it’s just the skin. Just push it over and that will break it. You have to pull the sides off, I’ll show you why in a second. Couple of fits on the side. And then hold up, it comes off in one bit. pretty flimsy, so one, two, three, four, five, six, seven, eight, nine, ten, eleven, twelve, thirteen screws that hold it on. And this is what you're left with. This is the front bumper breaking. I've loosened it up already. This is the bit little thing that if you have a crash, probably not going to you as well. I always have a stuff on the front of this one is from the previous DVD, because this little car does 67 miles to the gallon. So its two bolts. One there and one in the opposite position on the other side. That bracket just hooks in. I want to take this all the way off. This one has a halogen lamp bolted to it. I have to move the hole on this one, but the hole normally bolts to that hole there. It’s got a multi plug on it. So you can check if you got power down to there if your horns aren't working. Alright, radiator. I was putting a new radiator on this actually. Some of the clips would be an absolute pit to get to. And the other ones that compress up with a pair of pliers are the side of the pipe. So you pinch that up, slide that back and then push the hose off with a screw driver. And then over the top, come have a look. I got 10 mil bolt there, 10 mil bolt the other side. Exactly the same the opposite position. You got a new bolt here on the radiator fan. And the bottom of the radiator just hooks on to some brackets. So bottom of the fan hooks on to some brackets. So you got 10 mil bolt there, some old pipe there is being chap and there's a big one next to it. And when you moved those two, just underneath, there's another 10 mil bolt that holds the rest of the electric fan on. And then the fan will just lift off and out of the way. And with these two brackets off, the radiator will just lift off and out of the way. You can even bring it back from the engine bay or jiggle it back and let it pull out the front. It got some pins on the bottom which you can see just sits on rubber pins into the, sorry, that’s the one there. Into the front panel. So that’s relatively simple to change. And don’t forget to pull the wires of the electric fan switch. So, replacement is exactly the reversal of removal. What I will point out is, now we can see it. I’ll show you that side. This bit here is supposed to push into a clip that sits in there. It’s completely missing on this car. It fell off and broken. Probably when I had the headlights out to fit the hard chin kit. I don’t remember breaking them but they're not there. So that fits there, make sure your clips are okay, because it will affect your headlight alignment if it’s not in the right place, if it’s not in place. Right. Okay. So that’s it, I think I’ll make a film when we put them back together. I want to stick it back together now, put all the screws in. metal bracket on first. Skin back at the top. And then when you come to put the bumper back on the side, see this little brackets here, there's a little post on the bumper that will just slide on the bumper and will get caught there. So you have to pull the side out and let that little square post sitting in that hole. And obviously pull this out and put it back on. Alright, okay. That's that. Let's get it back together and then we’ll go and have a look at the back end. Once again, not very difficult. 8 millimeter spanner, 13 mil spanner, and a flat base screwdriver let you strip the front of the car. Just give me a sec. Right, rear bumper, number plate light and rear lights we're going to be now rip off and have a look and see how they go. As the car is up in the air, I'm going to start underneath. Two screws here, I've already loosened them. So it’s a bit flappy. There's two screws there, one is missing. They hold the back part of the mud flap up. Same on the other side. One of the flap actually clips to the bottom part, so it will come off with it. And just up there, you can see where my finger is, there's a 10 mil nut, plastic ones. The same as the front bumper. That will be both sides as well. So I’ll whip new 10 mil nuts off, and done all the four that’s underneath. It’s all pretty loose and we’ll come back from here and undo the top.