The way you would formulate with Inspires is quite similar to the way you would work with Koleston or any other color line. The first thing that you would want to do would be to establish what level your client is. I have a little card that gives me all of my levels and I can put it up against the root of the hair, find which level is the closet to her and I usually kind of bump up a little bit, particularly if the client has been prelightened, and is seeking to go back something closer to her natural color, they never really remember what their natural color is.
So if you dead on match the roots, you are probably going to run into problems. What I usually try to do is make it a half level higher than the color that's indicated by her roots, and then you are going to find out where she is going with the color, we are going to lifting two levels, three levels and we are going to be darkening. If we are lifting, one thing that we have to be aware of is underlying pigment.
So I do have an underlying pigment chart that I use all the time. It helps me with my formulations. If I know that the client is at a level 5 and I am going to be lifting her up to a level 7, I can see that the underlying pigment is going to be pretty gold with a touch of orange in it.
So if she wants to stay in neutral color and I put neutral over that, I am still going to be a little warm, because there is underlying pigment of gold in her hair. So what I might want to do is to give her a level 7 base, but I might want to put in a little bit of the rose or may be even a tad of the purple. Seven is still kind of a high color, so I wouldn't want to use very much, but the rose might not give me enough drabbing power. So remember, the purple is the opposite of yellow, rose is just a lighter version of the purple.
So that would be my choice. If I'm going to mix the level seven, I'll use 15 grams of the pure cream, I would use one-and-a-quarter grams of my neutral control, that will give me my level and then more than likely, I would use something like a gram of the rose and just a quarter gram of the vile, just enough to give it a little bit of kick. You see as I am only going up two levels, I will probably use 30 volume, normally in Koleston, 20 volume will lift two levels, 30 volume will lift three levels, and 40 volume will lift four levels. Inspire is a little lower in the ammonia department, so I'm not really going to get the lift that I would in a regular Koleston.
I have found that 20 volume peroxide will give me one full level, possibly a little bit more than that, 30 volume is going to give me two levels and 40 volume which the company does not recommend gives you three or four levels if you used heat. Dealing hair a hair. Okay, we have Michel here and Michel is in for a cut and color. She has hair that's passed her shoulders right now, but what we are going to do is bring it up to a graduated bob, chin length in the front, a little bit higher in the back.
Now I'm going to highlight out the front areas and then do a corrective color on the back part. She is growing, she has natural level 4, I'm going to lift her up to a level 5. When I'm done, it will look kind of like this. It graduates from darker in the back to lighter in the front because what I'm going to do is I am going to put on the foils in the front and then order and let them process at different times. It's all 40 volume bleach, 40 volume peroxide, used with blonder or bleach.
What I have done is I have a sectioned down an area where her part is going to be, and then I have taken a triangle that's very, very sharp. It follows the part line, so the bulk of the color is going to be her natural color and the highlighting is only going to fall in this area. Initially what I am going to do is pull out this whole frontline and right down the center of the part, I'm going to put the bleach on that first. Then I will process it for probably 15 or 20 minutes and take out a line behind it on either side and put it on another application of bleach only with 20 volume peroxide.
So I have got lower volume peroxide and less time, which is going to make the whole outside of this triangle a little bit darker bleach up stage than the center of it, which when it falls will give me more of a graduated color. Okay, the first thing I'm going to do is apply a color guard around her face, I pull all of her hair back off from her face. I am going to be using bleach around here so I don't want her to be too sensitive; this particular color guard is in individual applications, and it's guaranteed to guard me against the darkest color.
The first thing what we are going to do is start right down at her sideburns. I have got all of my hair separated. Going to come out from the root a little bit, to start out with because, she has some body temperature going on here and the closer I get to the scalp, the warmer it's going to be. So the lighter, it's going to get faster. I got these new tools from TempleClean. It's the same company that makes the barrier that I just put around her face. They are a little bit different from most color brushes. They actually have spatula end and one of the things I like about it is it helps me in my placement a lot easier, where I don't have splaying from the brushes.
I can get the color where I want it. Also, they are extremely easy to clean, not like bristle brushes where the color catches in between the bristles.