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Matty: Hi! Guys it's Matty, thanks for coming and thanks to the YouTubers too. That was something, I really didn't expect. I originally put these videos up as a means of communication with the other members of my hair dressing firm and didn't realize that the YouTube community itself, held a lot of people that were going to be interested in the type of things, that I am videoing.
I think it was about a month ago that P Shimano(ph) made a post about, Wella Inspire color. The whole color line really kind of fascinated me really, into color. But I have never done anything, that was pure tone. And the whole idea, of being able, to create my own color really got me thinking.
Well this is Inspire and it's a very, very simple line to stock. It has very few pieces, but these can do just about, anything. Our color chart for Wella Koleston is four pages long, it has just about every shade imaginable on our stock rooms, pretty big. This is all the space I need to stock a complete line of color. What I want to do is go over the product with you, and also include a little bit of color theory, because it's just going to help you to learn, how to use this product.
Well, first, a little color theory. What is color? Color is life, color is light reflect off, of a surface, the color you perceive is the color that's actually, reflected. The colors that you don't see are the colors you absorb. A white light, has all the colors of the rainbow, when it shift a prism, it breaks it up into the individual bands of color. What we attempt to do in hairdressing, is to alter the chemistry of the hair, so that the hair will reflect the colors that we want and hopefully, we haven't put anything and that's going to make it reflect the colors you don't want. But you have to understand what color is first.
Basically there are three primary colors; red, blue and yellow. From these three colors, you can make just about any color you want. In Inspire, they are the three main colors, really. Those four are all you need to make any color that you want. These extra four is just thrown in, so that we have something to do. If you mix, two primarily colors that are adjacent, you get a secondary color. The three primary colors together will make brown. The amount of concentration of those three colors goes from a light, light brown which we call blonde. To a dark-dark brown which we call brunette, and it can be adjusted anyway in between.
Whenever you are throwing a color that you don't want, you always choose the opposite or it's compliment. If the hair is too, yellow, you are going to add a little bit of violet to the formula. If hair is too orange, you are going to add a little blue to a formula. If you can get hair to be red, you can mix yellow and blue to make green. But if you notice, on most color charts, green isn't there, because if you look at most bleach out charts, you will find that you'll never get rid of all of the yellows that's in the hair.
So consequently, green would not really cancel orange, which is what you would have, if you had a high concentration of red, over a yellow that you cannot remove from the hair. That's why you don't really see a green in any of the colors that are offered by Inspire and in general, most of the colors lines, greens for example in Koleston would be a stripe to a-- you would have a green in it, but we have a green and blue cast, blue because blue is the opposite of orange, that's real important.
The only time, I can imagine that you could get red in hair, is if you take an 80 year old women that has solid white hair and accidentally pick up a FF which is super flame color should come up looking like we have seen a bowl bowling alive. So we don't really need the green. Inspire is a color that you make yourself normally, I have I believe it's over a hundred different shades in Koleston, a premixed color which means I can go up back and I can find level six and find it with a seven, seven base. So I am going to have a rich, rich chocolate brown. And unfortunately, if it's Saturday and my associate Margaret has used the last two of that, I am going to have scramble around to find a five, to find a seven, mix them together add some more color to it, to make it a deeper chocolaty brown, that can be real pain.
With Inspire, we only have one tube, one tube makes just about , any shape you want, by adding these crystals to it. Most important crystal, is nature control, it's neutral color generally, it's brown. it has all three of these colors mixed into it in an even base. And by adjusting, the amount or the ratio of crystal that you put to the cream, that is going to give you your shades from level nine blonde down to a level four or brunette.
So for example, with 15 grams of this cream, if I add one tenth, of a gram of a neutral control to it, I'll get a level nine blonde. If I add a half a gram, of neutral control to it, I'll get a level seven blonde and some day, I will memorize a chart. One and a quarter grams, will drop me down to a level five and I hold one and a half grams, for fifteen grams of cream which is 10%, doing this right will give me a level four.
Anything lower than a level four, instead of adding more neutral control I am going to start throwing it in drabbers and the two drabbers that I work with, are blue and purple. If I want a warm level three or level two, I'll be adding purple, because purple has red it in, which is a warmer color.
If I want something very, very cold a blue, black kind of a color that is always drawn in Superman comic books for lowest line with that blue highlight. I'll use the blue concentrate. The more of these that I put in, the darker my level four is going to get and approach a level three or level two. There are some rules, the maximum amount of nature control that you can put into a product is 10% of it's proportion to cream. And the maximum amount, of any of the pure tones that you put in combined, should not be more than 10%.
So if I were going to use purple and orange in nature control, and I was going to use one and a half grams of natural control. The combination of these two will not exceed 1.5 grams.
I could put in one gram of purple and a half gram of orange or reverse or any combination in between. But the total shouldn't add up to more than that.