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Amy E.

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Clipper Cutting Wizardry with A Surprise Finish!

Amy: We’re here at Static Salon in Hollywood and this is Ivan Zoot from Andis
and he’s going to do, what?

Ivan: We’re going to do a modern contemporary Mohawk-Fohawk kind of
haircut very popular something lot’s of us are cutting everyday. We’ll
cover some of the basics on it so I’ll show you the things we need to do to
park that haircut on his head and then we’ve got a special guest coming in
to punch up the haircut with some contemporary style.

Amy: That sounds exciting.

Ivan: Let’s keep it simple, we’re going to skin the sides in this case I’m going to
go to a 1-1/2 blade. I got my rotary motor attachable blade clipper. I’m
going to use my 1-1/2 blade coming in behind the ear and I’m going to
blend off the head into that longer hair. After I got that side in place I’ m
going to go clipper over comb. I’m going to switch to my number one
blade, it allows me to cut clipper over comb.

Using a #1 blade allows you to use clipper over comb.

I’m going to come in and I’m going to build off of that shoulder perimeter
up into this longer length. I like what he’s go there. I just want to kind of
punch it up a little, shorten it down a little bit. Rain it so that it’s
proportional to those shorter sides. It’s just grown out of touch. Notice I
redirect that interior hair down from above and cut it off and we get that
length progression.

See how that length progression works, comb it down and cut it off and
you get a nice natural length progression. I’m going to use something
called a file down blade, this is a specialty blade on an end this clipper is
called an OAFD blade and watch what I’m going to do here. I’m going to
use this almost as a grooming tool or as a polishing tool just to gloss that
surface and take down that haircut.

This blade is used exclusively off scalp. You don’t want to rest this blade
up against the scalp but it let’s me really polish down that side.

Filedown blades should e used exclusively off-scalp.

I would be using my mirror if I had one. In this case I’m going to step out
in front of my client ad I’m going to work off that surface to contour that
end and make sure I like that side. As we come around the back you’ll see
that the previous haircut was somewhat asymmetric coming in to the back.
We’re going to stick with that concept as we work through the shape.
We’re going to come into the other side with our 1-1/2.

This is where we break some rules you know. We’ve shot some other
haircuts where we’ve talked about classic and contemporary barbering or
classic compared to contemporary barbering. Classic barbering is where
we follow the rules, contemporary haircutting is where we break the rules.

Amy: Break the rules.

Ivan: You got it. Throw the rule book away so we’re going to follow the curve
at the head here and notice I’ve got a little bit of demarcation here or a
little bit of a jump between the shorter and the longer portions of this hair
design. What I did was I cut that area down with the 1-1/2. I’m essentially
prepping the canvass getting ready for Jeremy when Jeremy comes in with
his design we’ll see what we’ve got going on there.

Watch what we do, we come in here and notice how I stabilize that tool
against my hand.

Stabilize the clipper with your hand to avoid blade contact with scalp.

I do not place the leading edge of that blade against the client’s head.

Amy: Why? What would happen?

Ivan: It’s razor sharp and it’s super thin at the leading edge.

Amy: You could shed blood.

Ivan: You could cut him and you don’t want it. That’s a bad day at the office.
I’ve either got a comb between me and him or I’ve got the blade off the
surface of the scalp. I redirect that interior hair down from above and
notice I get a really super length progression like that.

See how I’m redirecting that hair. Look at that nice peak and look at the
contour in on that. It just take that basic shape he had on there and punches
it up a notch.

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Ivan: I’m going to come in. I’m going to redirect. By redirecting that interior
hair towards the sides, I can get my blend but maintain my height, my
contour and my shave

Amy: What about his hair texture?

Ivan: This is porcupine boy right here. This guy has got 220 volt hair each and
ever one of them is growing straight out of his head and makes it very
easy to cut some of these contemporary shapes plus when you’re looking
to come up off the head like that, notice how easy it is to power shin that
shape like that.

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