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Hoppers, that’s a subject that I think it’s about any anglers of smile. It’s probably the trout’s favorite food. I love the fish hoppers, but I took a long time before I really learn to like to tie hoppers and it wasn’t until I modified a few things that I see other hopper pairing that I found a grasshopper that wouldn’t take it. And I’ll have my fishing time to tie and also, with this very well for me.
This hopper has a number of characteristics that I find very favorable. One of the things I like about it is I can tie it in a variety of sizes from a nice big size six or an eight or even down 16. I’ll begin tying the fly and adding a little bit of space out near the eye of the hook, coming back about midway on the hook shank. Next, I'm going to tie that short section of all about 15 pound on a lot of filament deer material into -- on the hook shank. Trying a little on the dub, come back.
We’re going to tie it firmly. Stop at the bottom of the hook and we’re going to return back forward in. And the slide of the hoppers body is the most visible part of the fly. And that’s what we want to factor in to the construction is fly is undertook to view and that import an underside. And now for the body, I’ll take use elk hair and for this pattern, this is the yellow harbor. This is for the up tail pale yellow, elk that’s got firmly good length. And its kind coarse this actually -- because a little more tie around the bats there, I realize I made just by out of front of the fly. It’s actually quite close to the eye of the hook. Take a circle around that.
Okay, there's a fairly dub -- here and I want to actually reverse what we’re do-. We’re going to tie another. The differences were just distributing this around the hook with the tips of the hair spring pointed forward. Secure this down along get this back. I know this is right up the hook eye. Secure this ends very well. And we’re going to them throw them back right from the tie down here. We’re going to come back, just trim of these a little stubs of the parts of the hair so we don’t, we haven’t go into through when we bring this hair back. We’ll pull this hair, its going to sit around here, around the hook shank here. That’s to good as we can and nice slide the hook.
Many people are flare with that bullet shaped with this hair technique they see in also like dry patterns on strong fly patterns as well. As we go, this hair turning back to the rear. We’re going to see, we have our thread back about thoroughly away from the eye of the hook. And we’re just going to encircle this hair back it down here till it last one here. We’re pulling that out. Once we’ve reached that point, we’re going to be in the red back on our -- the reason in putting this more fully in here is to provide it core for the body and what I'm using that mottled filament core when we reach this point right here or we leave the shank of the hook.
Without that mottled filament, this becomes a weak area with the hedging area towards the fly that actually creates the part there. So I have a mottled in there. You give ourselves a little more durability actually a lot more durability. Come back about three wraps and toward the hook shank and come around the base tail here with our thread. And then well, we came to progress forward with that. Twist crossing the previous wraps of thread in here, okay. I'm going to set this up very close right here and the other side. It’s a good idea to dub just a little bit of head in some of that area right through it from sliding off the back of the fly. And we’ll put it a little sustaining body here. And create for the under wing and use some of this natural cream colored ball up here. So it’s a little stiffer and a little straighter than the hair we used for the body, it just not a few taps on the hairwing evener.
Okay. The arm wing, right up over the top of the body, just a little beyond the length of the body hang it some there, three or four turns. We’re going to leave those lots of extended there too. Okay, this is a cup of turkey wing curls the secondary coil for the over wing and the primary wing, I've sniped two different segments out of this. I'm seeing one from the right or one for the left. And we’re going to attach these wings individually over the back of the hopper. On the top of that little here but before that, I'm going turn this to do. I’ll shape this little more round and natural end and layer on top of the little round under wing. And if I just a little beyond that under wing, so that tips it on a little turn -- it goes up here as you can see them essentially at that.
Take it down in awhile. Roll around the body of the fly as well, come back to where the side wing. And again, try not to shape and then right back over, slightly overlapping our first wing. And adjust the length and we’re going to tighten up that a few wraps. All right, three or fours wraps. We’re going to trim the hair, under wing and the trim clip and wing coil segments. Just often even with the front of the head. And we’re got even too. And it gives us a natural color, wood shaped head of a hopper.
Now this is a strip turkey bud and its kind of reddish roasted color and most of the legs on the yellow hopper and sometime, yellow color are hoppers pink reddish as well. This is really simple way to make a leg hopper without going all the trouble of tying knots and struggling with that. So on the outside, I'm parallel with the hook and right along side, the edge of the wing and extend slightly beyond the end of the wing, and the time with this few spirals. I'm going to trim that off or even with the head and back pick another goose biots and little long in the inside, and the same procedure. Adjust the length over there and we want this right down along the side.
These were exactly provides some flotation systems with roller-- the appearance of the wing for the leg. Already speeds the tying of this fly. Turn that down off, okay. When you reach that point, it’s another hook finish to now so just use a little bit finish doing that, so we use the old finger tool for that half of the turns and the finishing. So I’ll slip down. I'm just going to use to a little biots legs so we got up here and along the edge, so it be. And you end your way from the body. Get control your head segment one of this tied down area. I'm going to secure that right where I want other thing. It actually it’s tied into that point with the exception of the head. So we want that well cemented. It’ green great hackle and this quick to tie. Cast it like a green and it’s very, very realistic. I think anybody that struggle with some of the other more complex soft styles, enjoy and appreciate this simple little hopper flier.