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Join Bennett-Watt and learn how to make the Irresistible fishing fly.
Tags:How to Make the Irresistible Fishing Fly ,bennett watt,fishing fly tying,fishing tip,fly fishing,fly fishing lesson,hair trout flies,irresistible fishing fly,make fishing flies,sports fishing
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How to Make the Irresistible Fishing Fly
We’re going to start to thread in about the 1/3rd mark of the hook and wrap it to the rear of the hook and I happened to be using super just multi-strand thread for this particular pattern. I am going to use moose body for the hair, tail, and I'm going to make this as long as the shape or eventhough this is a 2x long shank, I want that tail be fairly long. It will help in the buoyancy and affordability of the fly. Measuring from the front of the shank to the end of the shank, switch hands, measure, cut the hair so that’s ready to tie on and that you don’t have to cut it after it’s been tied on the hook. Use a little head cement on that moose body hair because there’s a tendency for this—turn on you after you get it on the hook eventhough you tie it down snuggly. And there’s a tendency for it to want to turn when you’re spinning the caribou. Wrap it forward, head cement—down into the material. Bring the thread to the rear fly.
Now, you can check the length by measuring with your scissors tips. Measure here and here and it’s exactly the right length, just perfect. Okay now, I'm going to using the caribou. I’m going to take our clamp about the size of a pencil, maybe a little bit smaller. You may have to experiment with these a little bit, decide out what—of this work well for you. I am going to take a little bit out of there. Now, I am not going to spin this particular—I’m spinning the rest of them that this first one, I am going to put on the different method because this is the hardest you get on the hook by spinning. So, try the different method and I found this works quite well. Cape the hair and just lay it on top of the hook. Bring the thread up and around twice. Now, push the hair down over the hook and just pull. Plum thread, you know how—is very easily. The two thread wraps don’t make anymore wraps through the hair. Make two or three spread wraps infront of the hair and take a second clamp of hair about the same size as the first clamp. You should be able to get 2½ or 3 clamps of hair on this 2x long hook without any problem. Trim off the tips. Lay it at a 45-degree angle. Bring the thread up and around, just roll it right around the hook. Bring it back.
Now, I have a hair packer and I can always come in here but I’m not satisfied if that’s tightened up, just going over the hair packer. Now, take one more clamp of hair, then about the size of the pencil, maybe a little bit smaller. And I urged you to experiment with this because it takes a little practice to get the hang of doing this. Make sure that the underfur is out of there. Lay it on a 45-degree angle. Bring the thread around a couple of times and then roll it right around the hook.
Alright, I am going to put two or three half hitches to secure it, it cut off—because I am going to change over to a different thread to do the wings and the hackle. It even helps. You take a pair of forceps and grab the hook with the four to six to do the trimming. That way your fingers are out of the wind, it’s a little easier to work. Remember the bottom of the fly, flat. Now remember, we’re tying a fishing fly here. If you’re going to tie a shell fly, you may want to make it round, make it look a little neater but I think for fishing purposes, you want as much gap as you can obtain. And turn it up right side up to the top and trim it down in an angle towards the tail. It takes a little time to do this and don’t hurry because you don’t want to trim off your tail. And this is what takes the time in this particular to fly. Now, do the sides, cutting at an angle again towards the tail. Now, take it out of the forceps and put it back into the device and do your final trimming around the tail. And this is where you have to be a little careful so you don’t cut off your tail or cut off parts of your tail.
It’s very important to use serrated scissors for this type of work. If you use regular fly tying scissors, you do not have serrated blades, I think you’ll find that it’s going to give you problems. I won’t cut the hair eventhough this is a fairly soft hair and cuts easily. It won't cut as nicely or smoothly as the serrated blades. Now, one of the thing you can do is take a razor blade, do your final trimming. We’re going to just put some finishing touches on the fly but then you want to be careful as not get too carried away and I'm moving along here to fairly good clip but when you’re doing that at home, you can take a—chime and do what so that you get. Nice, balance, symmetrical back, working around with tail there. Okay, I'm going to take my 12 thread, tie it on. For the wings, you can use grizzly hackle tips or white calf body hair. I am going to use this grizzly hackle tips. I’ve tried to fly an old or any expensive neck maybe on sale at your fly shop. It doesn’t look that good and you won’t use of your general bright flies but tips are nice round and they would—just great for the wings on this particular type of fly.
You can tie some large and small flies on the neck of this time. Now, I’ll try to make the wings about the length that is just a little bit shorter than the length of the shank since we’re tying at 2x long hook. And then, take your thread, tie that it on, trim off the excess. Stand those wings up. Make some wraps infront. Now, figure eight your wings. Bring the thread all the way to the back next to the body, got a little hair sticking out there, trim in a lot, get a lot of the way. And I'm going to take the—just put it on the base of those wings. For hackle, I'm going to use three hackles. Again, for buoyancy sake using two-dyed brown grizzly and one variant, you can use a combination in this grizzly and brown, whatever you like to your particular fly. I think for me, the best way to put this hackles on is to lay those between the wings and I do this in all my dry flies rather than long side or some people have different ways of doing and I’ve tried at least four or five different methods and I find that this method works best for me.
And its particular affect, it was with hair wings because you don’t have that bump or clef in front of the wing and this makes a gradual taper and makes a lot easier when you wrap the hackle that you don’t fall off that cliff that’s created because of the bulk of the hair wing. Now, take one hackle. As far as which way I put the hackles, I have experimented with this for a long time and I'm not convinced that any particular method is more effective than another but in general, I’ll have one facing conclave side facing the other conclave side.
Next three, wraps behind in three wraps infront if you can get that hang on there and usually you’ve been using this one of a shank. You have a little more room to work. Sometimes, you’d make three in back and two in front depending on the hook you’re using and you just have to experiment a little bit with that. My rule is try to get as many wraps of hackle a lot as possible without messing up the fly, which again I add to the buoyancy factor. We want to make this fly flow—well as we can. I'm using this hackle pliers which I find work a lot better than the traditional type that I use for many years until this came on the market. I find that these are very very effective, easy to use and they don’t tend to break your hackle quite as easily as you might with the traditional type of hackle plier, last hackle. Okay and you don’t have to use three. Makes a lot push here and then you have to wiggle the hackle a little bit as go through so you don’t mat down any of those that you’ve already got wrapped on the shank of the hook. Okay. Tie that off, couple of wraps, build your head, build up the tape from this little taper head and whip finish. As far as using head cement, I have gotten away from using head cement on my dry flies or any flies that I whip finish with the exception of some shell flies, steelhead flies and so forth because I find that most of the time, the head cement ends up somehow working—the eye of the hook. And when you’re on the stream, you don’t need that getting in your way. And if the fly is properly whip finished, there’s no reason to use the head cement, but if you’re—want to continue using it and you have a rotary device, turn it up side down so then when you put the head cement on, it tends to run down into the hackle. It doesn’t go into the eye of the hook.