I’m going to tie this aquatic wasp. Before I get started, we’re going to use a pre-wrap bandage. Pre-wrapping undertaking is one of those really called. It comes in a roll similar to this right here. This is s a little small used - of it. This is an natural color comes in it and it is kind of close sole foam. And we just take and cut off a piece and you could roll it up through that point. I’m just going take it and make it for different size body size 14, let’s say half inch or so wide strip, unfold in time with that.
Now, when dyeing this material, you can use a red dye at home. It’s very simple. If you had taken out for the roll to dye it, it dyes really, really quick, really fast. So you don’t need a lot of the dye just don’t put in there real quick and pull it out at color that you want. I have used this particular material on this when this is the only thing I can get to take the wine colors I’ve after for this particular wasp pattern. That’s a great drop by material there. And we’re going to start with—we had the black thread, this is size 14, 7957 B. And we’re bringing thread days to the barb, comeback to the point so I use this turn all over.
We’ll make this kind of hold it up a little bit, laid on the top, just make a wrap. And I stretch this material and wrap the thread back just a little bit. Then, I can pull this up tight and cut it and I’ll have a great big tie in there. It’s really small, really fine. And we’ll just bring the thread up here all the way for a minute and three stretches in this material, the last stretch of two ties you can't break it. But you change the taper and the texture of this material by stretching just the different intentions. So I’m going to come down around the bend just a little bit, backup through.
And as you can see from this point, the stuff is really a bright shining materials kind of—sort of—it has lot as the same effect as peacock quill has attracted type of material. That’s another reason I like it really, really well. Just keep working in this until we build up the abdomen while it’s fairly heavy. Let’s go get that wasp shape to it, back the thread up, we’ll tie that up about mid-shank when you tie this material here. As you can see, when you stretch and clip this hardly anything left develop on here.
And we’re clamping the same thing that we do before in building kind of a midsection here out of the black thread. And I want to make sure I have a definite segmentation at that point. And for the— I use the natural Mallard’s flank feather. And when I go through this, well, it’s like all three fibers precise. It seems to be about the best combination. I leave him right on the feather when I tie on my loop on this way. It was flip those three for scissors. Just turn it around. And if you hold at this where I’m angled on you can take out these fibers and you have complete control over the fibers and the feather even keeping them all together. Well, it take it—this way. When I stroke this back kind of pull them together and then we’ll lay those on top of the hook, pull it back with the thread to about just stopping on the abdomen there. Trim it short.
And I will do the little flank and take the feathers. This is where we control everything. I’m going to pull it up and I’m going to use this to work my loops and end this turning the - size. And what about this size have the abdomen I don’t really want the size or the shape. So I can judge my size from there, hold that off. Tie them down and work with the thread towards back as well I do. Trim that off. I really want this to lie down over the back into the fly so we just turn them back and tie now with a couple of turns. Take and split to each side. You can take the scissor points at this time if you give amount of shape just stick it in there, just kind of push against the scissor and that will open your loops back to where you want them. If you can get in between that is, there we go. Just going to push on, opens the loops backup, there are nice little loops here.
We’re going to finish tying down the spots and we have definite segmentation from this high end to half full. Very similar to the pattern we can take care to that. —with the hackle, just stripping, clean stem to work with. And then you're given a quarter of a 16th of an inch from the way, just tie this stem in, working forward and just tied off. I’m going to wrap hackle forward to a bottom maybe of a 1/16 of an inch, 1/18 of an inch maximum. Tie that off. Trim that out of the way. There you go. And we’re going to take another piece of the pre-wrap material. Just this one here, I’ve got actually just a little bit smaller, a little thinner, a little smaller heads. I don’t need quite for big wide piece that I used on the back. Lay on the top, tie it in, stretch it, take a couple of wraps, hold this up and stretch it. Wrap forward. Well, I just build this small little ball here. This one here I can keep more of a squared of tape—we’re just going too be squared off with this material. It’s there to make the quite exact bolder. It’s truly tough to explain down there, there we go. Tie that off. I’ll take the—finish this okay? This is what my head may turn off when I trim this hackle flat again. When you see the definite black segmentation between the body here—we definitely want that so we won't trim all the stuff here. It is three inches long out again.
With over 45 years of experience working in 40 countries, the South Pole and North Pole, the Watts present their travel, fly fishing and cooking videos.
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