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Now I am going to tie a fly called Dorato Hare's Ear dry fly, which actually is a similar -- actually, I will say a cousin of the Hare's Ear Dry -- Hare's Ear Nymph, which actually is a chub streamer fly. Because actually the flies were developed years ago by a man named Bill Dorato as a imitation of a caddis fly, suppose to be actually like female caddis laying its eggs. However, it has a lot of different features to it that makes it appealing to a fisherman, because it does actually imitate caddises. In the same time, it can be used to imitate mayflies and it also can be used as pretty much an attractor pattern. I started using this fly, I suppose about early 90s -- the time I started to get into this fly. A friend of mine used to fish it with me out in the eastern part in United States and we just started playing around with these flies in some of the faster waters and some of those stream and noticed that it was really effective in not only fast water, but also slower water.
A lot of people swear by the Adams as being the all-rounder fly, but I find this to be almost more appealing to than Adam, because of the fact that I can see this is use as not only a pretty close imitation of some of the mayflies that we have in United States, but also it works well in fast waters. It is one of those flies that I would not go out in the stream without having with me because of the fact I've always used this fly. I fished it pretty much on any place in the country. I fished in the West Coast, I fished it also on the East Coast as I mentioned, the Midwest and even the Rockies. Everywhere I have gone I've had very good success with this fly. I fish it mostly in a size 18, but it can be fished of course larger for the situation that calls for that.
It's actually very similar to some of the more traditional patterns that are tied for mayflies such as like as the Hendrickson and also the Light Cahill. It has a wood duck wing and the body is very similar to those flies, but there are some different feature that I am going to show you in a minute here.
So first thing is I am going to actually tie in a tail. Now this is going to be tied in a little bit differently then we would see in a traditional dry fly. It's tied with a very short tail because of the fact that it was originally tied to mimic a caddis fly. Caddis flies don't have tails; they just have the wings that rest on the water. So to illuminate the idea of having a long wispy tail at the back of the fly, Dorato actually decided to leave the tail very, very short. He also splays the tail a great deal, so it does actually as a way it actually form a wedge on that surface to make that fly stable when it sit on the surface.
So I am going to start up by tying that tail first. First thing I am going to tell you that I have got size 14 in here which is larger then what I usually use, but I have used them in this size on bigger water. And I have got a tanned thread at this point here. I have my barbed pinched down so I can be sure that I don't have to worry about fish getting stuck on this line, I will not be able to get them off safely. First thing I want to do is I am going to take my fly tying wax. I've already started my thread. I am going to wax that up and I am going to actually, before I even tie the tail and put some dubbing on to this fly. The dubbing that I am going to use through this entire fly is going to be actually Hare's Ear and Hare's Mask combine. It's going to come from the mask of an English Hare and what you do is you will take some hair from the base of the ears and also from the under side here behind at the base of the ears and some from the mask itself and I mix them together. You can blend it in a blender or you can do it by hands just by weaving the fibers back and forth.
I have some pre-mixed dubbing right here. I do leave guard hairs in which are these stiffer fibers. Stiffer, more shinny fibers on the upper side of the fur. So I am going to dub in a very small ball of fur, very small, which is going to sit just about at the hook then. Now this is on there to actually help that tail to splay. Any time you tie a dry fly and you want it to splay tail, this method is extremely effective. Tying a little bump or little ball at the back of fly before you tie the tail in. On a smaller fly you wouldn't even have to actually tie any dubbing, you can just use the thread and build up the bump, but I like it pretty good size bump on this. So you can see what I have got there, it's a small bump and some dubbing on my face sitting right there.
Now this is going to have a tail that's going to combined with two hackles. Two different hackles are grizzly and either a dark ginger or a brown. I am going to select a spade hackle from a grizzly, I am going to combine them very much like the tail on Adams. So I am going to have two colors. Now you could go ahead and just use grizzly it's pretty effective, but I found that having that nice bicolor in there actually helps to get more of sense of it being a little more like the colors you see in a mayfly and it unifies the colors of the fly throughout. So to get that tail, I am going to spread those fibers down and I use a pinch method as oppose to cutting them off. I take my finger make sure they are dry and I grab section. I am going to have more then one set of tails here, so I don't need to have it very, very thick.
I do like relatively thick, I should say bushy tail on this fly, because there is kind of bushy, scruffy looking fly. It's not a real elegant looking fly. This thing is pretty messy actually, but I think that aids. I can see that in a normal fly you would have this about the length of the shank, I am going to take this about half the shank length. So when I was sticking out at the back of the hook, I am going to short way off. It's a very, very stubby tail.
I am going to tie that in and I going to, I like the way it sat and actually come back again. And I secure it down and I am really going to - oops! That didn't work at all. Let me do it again, because I am having a hard time actually seeing I need to do here, on that small clump. A little bit bigger clump is easier for me to see what I am doing. So I will to tie the tail little bigger than it normally would so you can see what I am doing. And you get chance to see how that spreads out. So I grab that hackle again, I will take a larger batch this time. When I do to take the tail off again I will take them and I will pull them all together at the tips pulled down and then strip it away.
Now if I am lucky I will have myself evenly matched tips, it came out pretty well. When I push them to get there pretty much where I want it to be. So they are, they worked out just fine. I am going to leave that in there, short tail about half the shank. Much shorter then you want to do on a mayfly or traditional dry fly even the Adam which has a similar tail to this. It should be not this short, but I like them this way and they are really what makes this fly unique.
Now this is not splayed to much, so you can see here it's starting to splay, but it's really get that to happen. I take my thumbnail underneath those tail fibers and I push on that ball and they start to release splay out. If they don't go this much that I want them to, I can actually push them like this and pull them and I am stitch it up little bit tighter with thread and once again push that ball. I am not done yet, I am going to put in the brown on top or the dark ginger. Same thing. I am going to look in this cap here so we can find a good spade hackle. This batch doesn't matter quite as much as the first batch there, because it's going to be more or less just a coloration thing because of the fact these grizzly are already pretty well splayed out and gives you the flat form I am looking fur for that fly to rest on the water. Here is a good spade hackle right there.
The characteristics of spade hackle is usually little stubbier hackle and it also has longer fiber used than a normal fly, I mean feather. And it's pretty sharp on the tip usually, but it almost forms like -- almost like a knife kind of tip and not quite as narrow like a wig skinny reed or something like you see on the more typical dry fly hackles. If you take a look at this, it's a very nice sharp shinny fibers that's what you want to see in a spade hackle. These are very nice. I am going to grab them, and I am not going to take quite as many as I did in the grizzly and actually pull these down, so they are out of the way. There is my section I am going to grab. Move them down and strip that away quickly kind of whip through, flick of the wrist at the end there and it pulls it way. Here they are, nice and straight.
A few too many, because I don't want this to be overly thick tail. So I pull some of those out, lay them right on top of the same length as those grizzly fibers were. Start out by having a loose wrap and then tighten it up little bit. Then work back towards that ball and I got that brown and I am going to make those with the same thing. Just splay them around, I can be pretty rough with these because they are tightened pretty tight and I am going to push on that ball. Now I like to get these really splayed out. So I am going to really play around with that before I go anywhere else. There we go. Now I got a splay it okay, a good splay. And it's pretty important with this fly because we don't want to have it loose it's functionality. It looks nice and towards being a nice uniform stubby tail, but it also has to do something so splaying it really helps to let that fly sit on a surface and I cut off this excess. And now I am going to tie on my wings.
The wings are going to be traditional wood duck wings. I am being too tricky about these, except I tie them in a little bit differently and this is where I think my pattern or my variation is a little different than the original. Then I'll set my wings back a little bit. I am still playing with that tail, because I always think that's really an important thing and I have a little trick for that too which I'll just show you in a seconds to keep where I want them. Here we go. It looks pretty good now, nice splay.
My trick is this, actually I want to put in little adhesive in it, so I can keep them in where I want them, and as I am tying in the wings, that will dry. Got that -- hardening up that section, so it's not going to be coming out apart on me. Notice that I am doing them sticking that bodkin in this little piece of foam down here. Right next it I've also got this little container here which I have made, and I learned this years ago in Madison Wisconsin when I first started tying. I took a film canister and filled this up with steel wool, put that back and I want to really smash in there, so that there is lot of steel wool in there.
I took a small hole on top and I can stick my bodkin right in there, it's a very nice system for cleaning that. I should just keep that right in there. It also completely keep the bodkin and when that steel wool gets all gummed up, I just flip it over, and I just keep flipping it and knitting it until I get rid of the little broken fibers of cement, and you can use it forever and it's a very nice system.
Okay, next thing I am going to do is tie on those wings. So I've got a wood duck flank feather right here. You can see nicely barred wood duck flank feather. I tend to like to use though, a little bit shorter flank feather for these now. I don't know if that's a personal preference or if that actually does anything with that, but they are a little stiffer. Unless you have one of the larger, longer flank feathers. They are more flimsy, a little bit softer and the ends aren't quite as prominent. They don't give you nice sharp silhouette. These give you a better silhouette, and I feel they are easier to work with and they are less flimsy.
So I pick ones that are little bit on the edge of being of maybe a little bit too stubby, but these a scruffy flies, and I kind of like the fact that these are a little bit less attractive material, I guess what I begin with. I take away all of those shorter fiber that are on the outside. So that's all pretty close going to be the same. I've a little - few right here, I am going to rid of those. So they are all the same length.
Now I take this and my stem broke up little short, but it doesn't matter and I want to wet my fingers a little bit and then I am going to take this feather and I am going to roll it up. So I have these all stuck to each other. Now most applications of wood duck wings call for feather to be tied in forward, tips forward. I tie it backwards, because I've found that the silhouette that I create with this, slightly cocked back wing, is a little bit of more appealing I think in terms of if I do in the ones uses for caddis but it also it just gives it a little bit more of a unique kind of a look to it. So these should be the same measurement as you find in a typical dry fly, and that is about the length of the hook shank. So to measure, I will just go from the eye back to the bend. I am going to switch my hand here so I can actually get it where I want. I am going to tie this also pretty far back, almost the way you would tie in a wing in on a thorax fly, which would be just about at the beginning of the thorax.
I am going to go further back than the traditional dry fly too far where I will add this one and I will explain that why do that in a bit. Now what I am doing on the back of my fingers, I am resting on my tails. So you can see importance of putting in that little bit of cement, because I will be pushing and when that one is going to move, and they could get smashed back down again. Now it is long enough for me at this point, it's not bad but if I don't like it, I can just slowly loosen it up these wraps and pull back a little bit. Okay, here we go. I don't have to play with here, so I will lash that down nice.
Other advantage of doing this, tying at this direction is I don't have the big bump in the back, I get the bump in the front, and the reason it doesn't matters to me so much is because I am actually hiding that with dubbing. Something else that I find is a little bit more of a personal thing that I do is fly that makes a little bit of more buggy looking, is to add more dubbing more that the original pattern calls for it.
Actually, I am more concerned about having it that far back. I did in the kind of far. I am going to push this a little bit forward, the whole thing just a little bit. So I loosened it up and I still have got plenty of room there, but I am not quite so far of the center of hook. There we go. Tie that nice and tight so that it doesn't get away from me before I do anything else.
Now before I cut that off, I am going to cock these forward and wrap it behind them. Good hard wrapping, pulling up next to them, letting it slide down the feather. I am actually sliding on the feather before I do it, then I got them where I wan them. Now clip this off and I want to clip it off, so I am cutting it on a diagonal. Here it is. Now I will lash that down so that it doesn't move. Actually I cut some of my thread in that one luckily, it didn't go spinning off like it often does.
Alright, now I am going to check my tail again. I am always checking that tail because I want to make sure it stays really well flared up. Okay, now just like a typical application of wings with this I am going to tie this. They go a little bit more erect. I wanted it to be a little cocked back, but not to the point they are laying like a down lying down wing caddis. You can turn like this, you'll see they are all cluster right now. I want to split those in half, so that it's easier for me if I turn my device a little bit, so I can see that I am doing, an equal bunches here.
Wrap it between them to divide them in half, crisscross method just like this. And I hold them and wrap it at the base around each feather. Oops! Let me show you how this lash down where want it, around each feather. The thread is not cooperating. Let me do the first, the leading one first. Little bit easier from getting that one. Oh! No. it went the other direction. I'll get it. Can we hold that thread around that one? Big loose loop and I can get it to stand on it like a last sew in that feather. One more time.
I am trying out of flatter thread that I am used to, thread that I am used to using and it's a little bit cumbersome. There we go, I got around it. And than this one around and that one is going to be -- good, I got it. Now we've got a base on them, it allow me to actually play with those wings. I got one little fiber that got away, I am going to cut that out.
Some adhesive at the base, quickly. Make sure they are not going to go anywhere. Now I got my dubbing. So I wrap this to the back again. I have some pre-blended hairs here and mask material all set up here, guard hairs is left in and I wanted it to be a nice buggy looking material. I also prefer to use the more warm browns that I can find in the mask. I already put quite a bit in there, so it doesn't try to be a very dark looking, it's more or less kind of a light, almost, cinnamon kind of a color that I achieved by mixing in those colors.
Now this is a trick that I also that is really important to remember. If I get too thick at the start, I can spin that and kind of pull it down as I am coming in. His body, it should be a little bit chunky. This is kind of a fast water fly. It can be fish in slow water, it does work quite well, but it just seems to be designed very much like you could see a typical western big water rapids kind of a fly, if I go fishing in broken water.
Now hackles, hackles are going to be tied in again the same way as in Adams. We are going to have two hackles, one grizzly and one brown. Let me check these if got the right length. It looks above right I will go one more though, one size larger. Actually I keep doing that. I am seeing it, but I am not seeing it correctly. It looks like it right until detect the last minute. It could be a little bit longer.
Now it's okay to go a little big on the hackle with this fly, because I am actually going to be clipping the bottom of this fly to get rid of the long, long fibers at the bottom. Yeah, still not there. It's kind of a beat-up old cake when I have to often work way through. Okay, it should be alright. So here is the grizzly. You know I am still not satisfied with that. I am going to get one a little bit larger. I want to overdo it though. Looks just right and okay, perfect. Take away the webbing around that hackle.
It's okay to have a little bit of webbing on these, because again they are scruffy. Tie that in. I give a little bit of space between my hackle, the base of the hackle, that is, and the body of the fly. So I don't have to worry about it being smashed down the first turn in. And I'll get my brown. This cap has some very long, long hackles on it. Again, it's hard for me sometimes to detect which ones are correct with the like situation I have got here. Make sure it is fine. Okay, strip that down. Hackles are so long that as they are sipping, you think they are long skinny small hackles, but they actually, when they up into bigger range of size 14, they look very much like what a size 16 would look like. Okay, here we go.
Tie that in and wrap him forward. Now before I wrap in the hackle, I am going to lay in another layer of Hare's ear dubbing in there. In this forms, not only a little bit more of a thick median body to the fly, but it also acts as a nice soft base for the hackle to wrap into and it covers up any thread. So it gives another nice natural appearance to the fly. I am not going to put a lot in there and I am not going to wrap them between the wings and I am going to wrap on either side of the wings. Now I we go right there.
Time to wrap the hackle. Tied in my brown lash, I am going to wrap that one first because it is going to be the one that comes in. I am just play games, we already have to make sure to turn it around and I want that to wrap flat, so I am going to turn it in the right direction, there we go. Wrapping that hackle on edge as opposed to wrapping it flat. Weaving quite a bit because of the fact that I have that layer of dubbing in there. Do not wrap the hackle between the wings, wrap on either side of the wing base and that's it.
Clip away the extra hackle pieces. I do not want them sticking out. Make sure that's tied down the way I want it to be. I just did something that was not a good habit. I took a pretty long piece. I still have it here. I threw it away. I am going to put it in container on this side here. I have to save those because I could almost always find a use for them and I have a little container that I use. Pretty much every time I sit down, I will find something in there that I could use.
Now, the grizzly. Once again, I am going to have to ops! That didn't work it broke off. Be careful to wrap this on edge not on its side. Lots of weaving because now I am weaving down in between in brown hackle fibers. Coming through, carefully weaving. It's still a shorter hackle, but I prefer that neck because it is very stiff and I have a lot of different grizzle necks that I tied from and this one. You can see it is pretty beat up, it is pretty well used. It has really nice, shiny, sharp, dry fly hackles. I like to use it and I have got a nice thick scruffy color on that fly.
I am not done yet with my dubbing. Little more dubbing on the head and we are close to being done. We are almost there. Once you get more proficient with this, they go pretty fast. But when you are first working through this, you make a long process. I can usually tie these. These are very quickly ones. I get on materials laid out and I know what I am doing, I can just nail them pretty fast and they will get that way too if you work on it as long as I have been doing this. Here we go and I am wrapping a little bit of a head of dubbing in front of that hackle. This is the difference between what I do and what I have seen in an original pattern, but what it gives me is a little bit more chunky silhouette. It also gives it a little bit, I think aids in flotation. It is another spot for the air to get trapped in. This fly floats very well and even when it gets wet. It is pretty hard to sink this fly. And we whip finish this now.
Make sure we get that through where we need to go, pull up nice and tight, pull it through. I am sure the eye didn't get too crowded, a little bit crowded but it is not the end of the world. Now that everything is very nice and secure, I can go through and I can really abuse that tail. Make it nice and spread out. Bodies are a little bit median that I like it to be at the back here, but it should be okay. Now, I am going to tie it off, I am going to cement this and I will do last thing which I am going to be clipping the bottom of my hackle. That's done outside of device, but I am going to leave it in so that you could see what I am doing. Be careful now, it was pretty close to that eye.
I am going to leave my bodkin right in there. Make sure I don't have a clogged eye. Nothing worse than that when you are middle of a hot an emergence of some kind of fly and you are trying to get that fly in that hook and it is clogged. Now turn that thing little so you can see that I can push my hackle now at this point to either sides, sometimes they get stuck under each other.
I am going to take my scissors now and I am going to make sure that I cut that off in the right place. What I am going to do is I want to cut the bottom of this hackle straight off and it should be really, really quite straight. I am going to lay it at this point, I am going to touch the hook and cut so I can that; that laid it on top of the hook, it's okay but I will cut through the bottom of this one. Then cut it straight out. I want to check to be sure I am cutting this straight and instead of having it on your hand, easier to do that. I am going to actually probably have to pull this thing out to do that and I will try to keep it in this range so you can still see it in focus.
So I will take it like this and I could lay it on the bottom of the hook like this and cut them straight across and what allows this fly to do is a couple of things. First of all demonstrate what it can do. If I drop this fly onto my hand, it always lands straight. It didn't do at that time, but it should because of the weight of the hook. So this thing will land hooked down pretty much anytime you cast it into the water with that. It also allows the fly to sit flush in the surface, which is nice and appealing thing because of the fact that it feels very much like insect is somewhat in the surface. The third thing is you can actually skitter this fly, which means that having that cut off in the bottom, you can twitch that fly across the surface and it jumps and hops across the surface like a caddis fly. Very appealing, many times when I have had fish that are not being very active to get a couple of twitches and those fish turn on very quickly and grab that fly. This is my version of the Dorado's Hare Ear.