Now, what we’re going to do is to check the sump level is okay. We don’t want to overflow it if we lose power, so we’re going to shut the pumps down. And the water rises when you shut the pumps down. Okay, now that our overflows are drained out and we can see it’s not going to overflow. So, I’m going to turn the pump back on and then mark our sump level.

Now that are pumps are back on, this is going to be our sump level which we know it’s not going to overflow. So, we are going to mark this sump level right there and that will be at full level.

This is a float valve. It allows us to top off the sump with water directly from the RO/DI unit. We’re going to draw a hole exactly one inch above the full level. We make the bottom of the whole at the top of the one inch tape.

I like installing the valve directly into the sump rather than have a stand alone unit as it takes up less space and I feel it is just—now that we have finished our hole, we are going to install our float valve. A float valve allows water to come into the sump when the level is low and stops it when it reaches the full level. There is a need of valve here that will stop the water. Next, we tightened it up and you just have one tape to wrap around the threads.

This is the compression adapter which we attached to the valve itself. Make sure this is secure. Next, we tape the green RO/DI line, slide the housing on to the end and then install into the compression adapter.

The float valve is now at the full level so the valve is not letting any water into the sump now but if I touch it and put this down, we can see the fresh RO/DI water will flow into the sump.