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Tags:How to install Shimano Cantilever brake,brakes,cantilever brake,maintenance,mountain bikes,shimano,zinncycles
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Now it's time to talk about some older brakes, about Cantilever brakes, original cantilevers, not side pull ones, but center pull cantilevers. In this case, we have Shimano, this is Shimano XTR from a bygone era. One of the things that distinguishes a cantilever is that if two arms that move toward the rim, and the cable comes in from the center, and then through some sort of a yoke set up, it splits into two cables that pull the two arms.
So to release this brake, sort of pull the arms toward each other, and pop that out and, there is metal hooks on the fork so you need to screw secure, drop the wheel out fork, and I'm going to show you how these brakes melt, increase the posts, a little bit of grease on the spring, never hurts, parts of the spring are moving out into each other.
So this goes in from the back side of the brake. There is the hole of that spring, in goes in. So here it's popped in. And here, we're actually going to undo the brake arm. This is the really old one, takes an 8 millimeter wrench rather than a 5 millimeter hex key. Now I'm free to position this brake wherever I want, and I get that spring lined up with the hole there, and I'm going to get this bolt started.
So now, bolt started, and then you can see this spring isn't really in that hole yet, so you want to kind of steer it in there while you tighten, so we start down, make sure the turn spring is working. Okay. That's how you install Shimano style Cantilever brake arm. To adjust the brake pad for the 10 millimeter from the back side and you hold this eye bolt, it's called an eye bolt, because it's got an eye through it, like that.
So there is a nut that's convex to fit into the concave shape behind the brake arm, and here's your eye bolt. There's a washer that goes on the eye ball that's around the brake arm, and then your washer convex side toward the back of the arm. Apply that in there. I'm just going to loosely snug it down right now. This kind of a bolt is fortunately gone out of favor on bicycles, it's a lot more of a pain in one that has a hex key end on it. You then tighten down onto the cable. That's how that tightens in place now. Go ahead and put the wheel in.
Now, obviously, that pad is not hitting that rim very well, 10 millimeter open in wrench, I will be nutting back, and 5 millimeter on the eye bolt. I have it loose enough, so that I can still move it some. It's actually angeled too sharply relative to the rim, so I want to turn this so that it tips up more. Like when it pops back, it doesn't hit the tire. I don't know if you can see that, but the toe is toed in, the toe hits before the heel of the pad.
In fact that's probably a really pretty good adjustment. Both arms are pulling away strongly from the rim. This lever is pulling back pretty far the grip. So I want to tighten that up a little bit, which I do by this little barrel adjuster, and now it's better. Then I tighten this one to seize that up against, okay.
So I'm pretty happy with that. Right now the left pad, this pad is pulling back from the rim faster than the right pad, and you can see there is that little hex key set screw deep down inside there. You can put a 2 millimeter hex key in there. If you go counterclockwise with it, it's going to loosen that spring here, and then are they better balanced.