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Learn how to Fix a 2 stroke oil weed eater engine.
Tags:Fixing a 2 Stroke Oil Weed Eaters,2 Stroke Oil Weed Eater,How 2 Stroke Weed Eaters Work,How to Fix 2 Stroke Oil Engine,How to Fix Home Appliances,How to Fix Weed Eater,davidsfarm,How to Fix 2 Stroke Weedeaters
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Male Speaker: Well, lots of people have message me wanted to know more about fixing small two stroke engines and cleaning there carburetors and fixing weedeater and stuff like that, so I don't have a very common problem to do right now, but it's a wearied problem. An old man dump two stroke into the gas tank, I mean two stroke oil unmixed got running through a couple of seconds and then feel the carb and the system up with two stroke oils, so just like the carb was clogged with dirt like you sitting in few years, I'm going to have to take the carburetor part and get all the two stroke oil out and show you I fix two stroke carburetors.
This homelite are typical example of any weedeater. The good thing about it is the carburetors expose like I show you things more easily. Most weedeater carburetors have two screws was it called mixed screws. One is called H and one is called L. L means low speed adjustment. H means high speed adjustment. So they set you mixtures with a two different speed ranges. This particular model being a later model has the little plastic covers on the screws that prevent very much movement of them. This is for a missions they actually made a mission logs for small engines and especially two strokes I hate these things when the carburetors get old the tiny bit cord, you can turn the screws enough to get the right mixture and you kindly wonder what to do next?
What I do, I just take my side cutters and I gently bite off these little carburetors; and chunks without bending the screws and through the pieces away and then just use the screws away there meet to be used, like on the old weedeaters. When your weedeater is adjusting, when your weedeater is running all by itself well the way you adjusted the very first adjustment you do is run at wide open throttle, no choke and then your turn the H screw in or out.
So that runs the fastest speed and then soon as start running the fastest speed you turn it out a little bit more may be of a turn. It will actually slow it down a little down, but it will give it more torque causing it to run slightly less chance installing when you hit the grass. The way you adjust your L screw for low speed mixtures you set your idle speed, so that idles kind of okay and kind of slow may not be yet and then well it's idling all by itself you turn the L screw, whichever direction you need to, to make it run the fastest.
Once its running the fastest, well then you readjusts your idle speed screw appear on a throttle plate to make it run the idle speed you wanted to idle and that's how you set both of them. When they are properly set you should be out of without bark in between when its warmed up and it will just go from low speed to high speed without in order swelling down or changing Rpm's just increasing.
Now on any two-stroke engine and even a four-stroke engine, when you wearing them out wide open throttle and you see like misty gas blowing back towards you and you have less of sucking sound you more have throbby sounds like woow that means your exhaust system is plugged. Well that's not is common on four-strokes, but it does happen from pinched exhaust or clogged, converters, but on two-strokes that happens all the time.
Over the life of time you own your weedeater the exhaust will be come clogged if you use it lot. Sometimes your it's what called a sparker rest your screen in the output, sometimes you can't see it right into the opening, but its in there and you got as split your exhaust and hack and either scratch out all the little holes in that screen. Remove the screen or use torsion burn off the carbon is still pop up on that screen. Here are some old engines to demonstrate clogged exhaust parts. This is where it attaches to them upper and this is the exhaust part you can see the piston moving up and down and it we can all two-strokes.
This particular engine has three ports. All them could be clogged or use the two outside when clogged first and the middle one last , you just use a screwdriver to dig out all the carbon in cured and the blow it out you do your best try now to scratch the piston while you doing this. Now the little tiny weedeaters they usually don't have three holes it just sort of one hole port it's lot smaller same thing the port just get smaller and smaller, so you scrap it out, blow it out everything will probably be fine.
Another thing you can notice, when your parts are plugged is that your engine will start up and run when its called not have full power or rib out, then soon as it warms up, and even works worse. Well, there is good time to take a look under your exhaust system in check your ports.
It is so common on your little weedeater engine still have brought in fuel lines. You know the little filter bulb inside will falloff and down surround inside the tank. Your lines can break on the outside of the tank. This step just gets rotten in after about five years, so there is a special fuel line in different diameters you can buy, but there is trick if how to get fuel line into the hole of the tank without it just stick in stuck. The trick is cut the long sharp angle see like that it might even want to make a better point to a double cut. See now I have a long skinny point. Well, you put little spit on here and you start subbing it in the whole and twisting at the same time, it actually goes in, if you get lucky enough you might able to get in for enough you can reach through the filter neck opening and pull it through, so there is a trick simple as that, but you didn't hear that one before.
Now because weedeaters not really worth that much money and there is not much problems in fixing them. The very first thing you do before you even attempt to fix one to see if its work while going to step two, see if the motor is good. So first, pull the handle see if it's got good compression then check for spark that's good next step. What I do is I dump it, put half a teaspoon of two stroke oil in the carburetor while squeezing the throttle wide open. Make sure carburetor is facing upwards. Then what out the choke on and machine turned on. I have the throttle squeezed wide open and I pull it towards. If your motor is good and you have got good kind sheaf seals and good compression it will start up and open for a second and the conk out.
Then proceed the step B cleaning the carburetor or checking for clog exhaust or broken fuel lines. Now for removal of the carburetor, so I can take it a part and give it to general cleaning with any weedeater that set for a couple years is clogged up. One thing I forget to mention, there is special carburetor on very late model often more expensive weedeaters called carburetor. These carburetors look different, they have no adjustment screws and the way they have sooner that lifts up in the middle up in the throttle plate makes and even look like a motorcycle carburetor.
I hate these carburetors. There are set to run so lean. If you're not working perfect you can't fix them there is no adjustment and there so expensive to buy ones. Luckily most some don't have those. So pull your little crabby off. Just unhook the throttle cable and if you need to unhook the fuel lines it's 100% important, which goes where, so make a diagram that something to remember that. Now you got your little carb off, check this squeeze valve for the primer. It shouldn't have any cracks, it should be prefect. If it's leaking, your machine won't work, check the back gasket using as any weeds there is nothing worry about in there. There is my choke, so weedeater this one is fine.
This is called an all position carburetor and that uses a diaphragm and needling pen inset of float ball. So I guess we can start there first although it's not that important. Now and do you best and the diaphragm and look inside. This was coming up no problem and you can see peer two-stroke oil in there. Well now I get this all the way off and I want to blow it out I depress that little liver arm right in the middle, when I depress that it's lifts open to needle, which is right there just like a needle in the carburetor, so that when I blow air through both ways through hear and to those the fuel tubes that clear the passage ways out.
Now that's good enough for now on extremely clogged all carburetors you even take each one of these screws out, and blow to the little holes and to the passage ways through the throat of the carburetor clear them out. Make sure you get this screws marked, which one goes were because each ones slightly different.
So this carburetor just had too much two-stroke oil on it. I leave those screws and tatted. Well now I'm taking the part to primer both side that's the flow chamber side in that areas where the fuel is metered into the carburetor on the venturi and this is the pumping side there is actually a little diaphragm fuel pumping there to get the gas up from below the carburetor to the carburetor. This is your priming pump that gets at there in the first place, then below there is your diaphragm pumps, which take that pressure to this little whole here, move the diaphragm up and down and that like a fuel pump like in the snowman bell.
The two little valves is set like two little tongue of black paper. Sometimes they get fibers or hair on them and that causes not to seal or sometimes you're just stuck there with duly stated dried up two-stroke oil. It's unfortunate that when you fixing weedeaters, your 50% of all the ones to come across will have carburetors so gummed up it's unrepairable and these carburetors are so much money to buy new from a dealer, but you can't get them as low as seven bucks on eBay and may be do some modifications to make and work for your weedeater. If you can make it fit weedeater and make the throttle work it will probably work on your weedeater if you adjust properly
I will got the fuel pump side apart that's a little filter screen sometimes it's clogged, right now you can see two-stroke oil sitting on it. That's a vacuum chamber and these other holes are holes the fuel less pump through. Like I said there is a vacuum diaphragm that moves up and down as a pump, which gets as it's vacuum from over there. These are clear valves, but there are tongue shape there is one there, there is another one there. They go move up and down open and closed it gains to as little holes. Make sure everything is 100% clean and down there too, so now we blow off everything, but we carefully get have to hold out fingers on the edge, so we don't blow diaphragm away while we blowing it. And here you can blow it all you want, nothing should disappear, see almost disappeared. See almost lost my filter screen it just little propped out that's doesn't have very often.
Now that this clear gaskets back in place or diaphragm time for reassembly, now to put the diaphragm back on to the other side of the carburetor with the even valves is this acts like a fuel ball on a carburetor, when that gets full enough that little button moves away from a needle and stops the fuel. This should have no falls and it should be stopped. Sometimes they get very hard on all machines, when they are very hard they don't move then your machine pisses gas out all the time or floods out when you trying to use it and well and then you got to change it. All done, now I'm going to assume this carburetor was probably okay because it was just too much two stroke in it, but at least you know now how to go to general procedure to clean the carb, in case all clogged up. If you have lost count of how many times you got these screws out. Well the general rule of thumb is any engine or run with this screw to turns out to 2.5 half turns out.
Once you get running then you do your final adjustments from then, very often it ends up around 1.5 turns out for each screw, but that's not always true. Now when you get everything reassembled you want to get your carburetor prime, you have two choices you can dump a little bit gas and here like I said half a teaspoon and keep starting and having it run to the dies and that will uses own fuel pump to prime itself or you can sit here and depending on how lot of thing works pumped as many time does you want do you see fuel inside appear and fuel going back down to return line.
There is no limit to how many time you can pump it just as not prime the carburetor like on no fuel in, all it does is suck the liquid fuel up to fill the carburetor and that's it. So here goes a speck gas I'm just storing in a bottle, two stroke that's enough squeeze the throttle and make sure goes into the engine now ready to start.
Sweet, with that one I already had pre-prime the D primer button on top, so that's why kept running after I did that, but if you doesn't keep running first time keep adding some more does keep running. Air clean is back on now we are all done now, the only other problems with this weedeaters is of course screwed up the coil starts but that's another story. Blown out gaskets at the back here with the plate is or blown out engine crankshaft shields in behind the fly wheel and those are blown out your engine absolutely will not start even if has lots of compression.
Sometimes it will just fire and pop and confuse you make you more frustrated.