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Now it does take a full day for this to dry, but you don't have to leave it on her head for the full day. After about ten minutes, it's solid enough that you can remove it very, very carefully from the head. With it, will come cellophane and then you just peel the cellophane out and you can see that the markings have been transferred to the inside of the unit.
After the mold is dry, I would go through and sharpen up all of my lines using a sharpie and also some white out to remove the width of some of these lines and then make up a work order and include hair sample, send it off to Manila (ph). It takes about nine weeks to fabricate. What they are going to do is they are going to spray the inside of this unit with wax. Then through the wax transfer all of the marking so that now it's on top surface of the wax and then pour in Styrofoam.
What we'll get is the mold marked and the marking is transferred to the foam. The foam is what they are going to build the hair piece on. What they are going to do is stretch the material that you have asked for over this foam and make an exact copy that will fit top of her head. You can indicate around the edges if you want some polyurethane. This is good if you are doing a permanent attachment because now you have a surface to apply your adhesive. It's also good if you are going to do a temporary attachment because this gives a stronger base if you just sew your clips in.
And some people, who have very, very short hair, this polyester can extend to the hairline and then instead of having the polyurethane going across the entire edge, we are going to zigzag it, so that it leaves areas where just the polyester or monofilament is exposed. This makes a slightly flatter edge and it is really good for very, very, very short hair styles.
Our mold is dry now, and all we have left to do is to mark it and to complete the paper work that goes with it. The inside of the mold has the imprint from the original molding and what I am going to do is with the sharpie, I am going to sharpen the inside lines so that they know precisely where the edge of the unit is going to be. In this particular case, it's silicone so I don't have too many markings to put in because the entire base is going to be made up on one piece of material that's molded over the foam that will come from this base.
To make sure that there aren't mistakes at the factory level, once I have penciled in the precise outline, I am going to cover over any extra markings with white out. Okay, now that it's completely marked, all I have done is indicate it with a very, very dark line, the outline of my unit and where the part in the crown are going to be. Those markings will show up on the foam, we'll use as the base to stretch the material for the hair piece. The other thing I have to do is throw out a work form. This will indicate the types of materials I am going to use for the base, the types of hair, colors of hair, how they are going to be blended and which direction the hair is ultimately going to be styled.
Starts off at the top, it's the product line. You get to choose the label that you put inside, you can use the company's label or you can use your own. The difference is that when you use the company's label the unit is guaranteed for one year. When you use your own label, you provide your own guarantee.
The next section is construction specifications. First box you go and indicate the size of the unit whether it's going to be 16 or 24-inch partial, which is a very small piece used at the top of the head. Generally, it's used to comb hair over or to blend in with hair that's standing more upright. There is top of head which is what we are doing today. It can measure as much as nine inches from front to back and seven inches from side to side. Once you go over those dimensions, it becomes a three-quartered half-path. Of course, then you can do a full wig also. Each unit is prized according to the size or the area of the base.
The next section is the materials and that's where you are going to decide what kind of base is that you are going to be putting in your units. I told you before that there are three, four bases; polyester, nylon, polyurethane, and silicon and each one has its different characteristics. Polyester and nylon are both meshes so they are very airy and light and are very comfortable to wear. Silicones and polyurethane are actually skin-like materials. They are very convincing for very short hair cuts where you actually want to see some sort of scalp. Usually in these kinds of materials, the hair is implanted one individual hair at a time. One cut, even into a wiffle, it will look absolutely real.
Next section is the style and that's going to be how the hair is ventilated into the unit. If the hair is going to be coming straightforward, that's the way the knots are going to be placed in so the hair just naturally falls forward. If there is a break or a part then the knots are going to be twisted so that they are directed away from the break or part and this will make it fall naturally into that shape.
Brush that with a lift, is a hair that is actually directed forward and then in the kerning process, the hair is rolled backward, so it gives a little bit of hype off of the hair on. Whereas it's brushed back, the knots are directed backwards and it gives more of a sleek, almost -- go, see type of look. I don't generally use this kind of a style set unless I am using the theatrical front lace because that's going to give me a very, very soft hairline. I also generally don't use the theatrical front laces on clients that are starting with hair replacement for the first time. They are much more fragile, they have to be replaced more often; they require a little bit more repair and a lot more care.
They are a little bit more difficult to put on and all of these things are a little too much to give to a client for the first time and let her get used to wearing hair to begin with and then we might experiment in different types of styles that would involve these different implements. Along with the style and specifications is the density of the hair and the curl pattern of the hair and the length of the hair.
You first indicate how long you want it. The human hair unit has two different price increments; there is 6-inch long hair and then there is 16-inch long hair. Anything in between 6 and 16 is priced out as the 16-inch hair. Then you have a curl pattern which generally in human hair is very, very loose and they allow you to curl the hair on yourself when you are with the client. I use a regular perm solution but I do not neutralize, I leave it on the rides for 48 hours and remove it from the rides and dampen it down again. This gives the hair enough time to naturally absorb the oxygen from the air or to neutralize, not break it down too fast.
Ventilation is the process of the density of the hair. How many hairs per square inch you are putting out? Generally, readymade wigs are of medium density and I find they are rather thick. I generally order light to medium-light densities and I will vary it, so it is light around the hair line and then as it progresses towards the crown of the head, it gets a little bit heavier.
The last section is color specifications and you have two choices. You could choose a color from a color range; you also may blend two colors. They will do that at the factory. All I have to do is indicate the numbers from the text and percentages that you want to blend it together or you can include a hair sample. Where Roxanne colors her hair, I make sure that I color it first, took a sample using the thinning shears in various parts of the head, making sure that the sample is large enough that you could actually see what color it is and then attach the sample to the work order when I send it out.
Now the work order and the mold are done. All I have to do is package them up inside the box, include a check and address it to the manufacturer and we just wait nine weeks while the little ladies over in Korea put this thing together and it will be ready for me to cut it on Roxanne.