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This is a car repair tutorial on how to block sand body filler using hand blocks.
Tags:How to Block Your Body Filler Out,block car body filler,car body filler,car sanding,automotive dent repair,block sanding,butlercollision,car repair,collision repair,custom repair,hand block sanding,How to Block Sand Body Filler
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Alright, now we are going to talk blocking your body filler out. It's already had body filler applied, dents being repaired, body filler applied and now we've got -- blocks come in different sizes. Generally you want to use the biggest block that you can you know depending on the size of dent. Smaller dent that course would be probably too much there so you'll use a smaller block.
The bigger block you use the more level your body filler is going to be. Got different grades of sand paper. Generally, you are going to start out with something like 36 to rough it out that'll sand it real fast. Again on a smaller dent, that's a little bit of over, it is okay to probably just start with 80. But a considerable -- a pretty good sized dent start with 36 and then you can move to 80 grit which will eliminate to 36 grit scratches. It's a finer and then before you prime you'll finish it out with 150.
So, I am going to start out with a 80 grit on this one, one of the biggest mistakes whenever sanding body filler as you sand too much, under cut it and you basically sand filler back out of the imperfection that's let behind. So you don't want to over sand it but when you are sanding you want to be sure and cross sand. You don't want to go one direction the whole time or it might get it in pattern or following a certain contour and then have a wave in it, and also on your edges that helps feather edge your edges in by cross sanding. So be sure and go all directions when you are sanding.
You always want to keep your block level and flat also, you can see there is a spot that is little bit of low, you never want to try to sand that spot out of there. I mean I've seen it to where you are trying to get it smooth and that's what you are thinking I want it smooth into the spot there, let me sand that out. You want that spot to indicate itself to you so always keep the block flat.
Now as I am cross sanding going back and forth different ways. I can see before I can feel this edge I still have an edge here, you want all of your edges to kind of feather in to the metal. You want them to feather into the metal where the body filler gradually fades into the metal, you don't want no definite edges like right here. I need it to sand it out. So kind of concentrate more on this edge right now, because that's good back here, this edge right here and I am going to make that feather that gradual edge by cross sanding, so just about two or one, I even kind of sand lighter.
We've got a edge here from the paint and we will have to feather edge that which we'll talk about that later but right now it feels good. I think it feels low with every thing so now I am going to stop sanding with my 80 and I am going to switch to 150 but before I do I'll put just a little bit of guide coat on there and what this will do just to indicate any lows or scratches that may be left behind. It will put this light dust coat on.
This would be the step here that we did have some imperfections on a low area that was not filled, that's when you go ahead and find some more body filler to it the second time. For now, I am going to continue doing my cross sanding, see how it kind of indicates where some of the scratches are, we want to get those out but once those are out that's good enough where we are going to start undercutting.
Now, what we'll do is we get a DA which is 150 and will feather edge its edge for you to fill that edge there but you got be careful not to hit the DA on your body filler or else you will under cut your body filler, and we will feather that out and then it'll be ready for primer.