We make sure our here our finger is clear a little bit. I had to print out just a little bit of an angle. If you don’t want to put a lot of tension, you keep the print flat. If you wanted to make a bit tighter, the more you have it up like this, when you grip it, the tighter the camera is going to become. And what I found out is using just right in that area is a good tension for the canvases. You can make it so tight, you can tear the canvas and we don’t want to do that, okay.

So, we’re going to close our grip, okay. We’re going to walk around to the yellow side and when I’m walking around the other side. I’m holding the bottom in. We’re going to hit our two cycle, two strokes cylinder V lifter. Notice that I lifted it up and it gave me an expose edge here to put staples in. Now you can see the reason that we have a long nose staple gun. The other thing I haven’t mentioned about the staple gun is this staple gun features stainless steel staples, the advantage of stainless steel staples especially if you’re in a coastal area or humid areas, is most staples wont rust within 2-3 years. This stainless steel staples will never rust.

Okay, so it’s fast as we can pop this poppy in. We do our staples. Okay, we walk back to the front of the machine, we can release our two stroke, release grippers. Okay, so there's our first stretch. Two sides put down, okay.

Next thing I’m going to do is go over the table and do my corners. We’ll do my fold a military bed fold. There we go. A recap is the real simple ways to make a canvass an archival museum quality product is the equal print shield on the surface. Sealing the bars for the acid doesn’t migrate through, and a backing at the back of the print.