Dennis Potter: Now, wings, I'm a synthetic user, I really like this. If you want to use feathers, you can use Grizzly hen hackle tips, that sort of thing. This is EP fibers, a wonderful material from Enrico Puglisi. This color is slate and I really like this because it has a salt and pepper look to it and many flies, beetles that kind of thing have that black, clear veiny kind of look to it and I really like this color; it's very dark.

So, what I'm going to do is just trim up in the end and we need two of these segments, and I'm going to pull that tight just to give you an idea of how big a round that is, and when I tighten that up a little bit, this part is big a round as a pencil lead, not too heavy. And we're just going to do a simple pinch loop, take a couple just barely tight wraps, pull those tips back until they just step back at the back of the head and then tie that on a little bit and then I'm going to take another cloth that's about that same size, trim the ends.

Now, I have tried in the past doing one clump pulling it over dividing it, it simply doesn't work. We're going to do the same thing here, we're just going to bottom trap this, pull it short just behind the head, and then wrap that in with several good tight wraps. Okay; and you can really start to see the shape of the thing coming together now. I want to help these wings stay gathered together when it's floating, so I'm going to take my thread and put a single wrap all the way around the base of each wing right at the body. We'll do that on the outward side, all the way around and tighten that up and that also helps pull these wings back a little bit and that gives the shape.

Now, one of the additions over the years that I've put on that I think is very critical is what, and with the advent of round rubber legs in a multitude of sizes, we're going to use mini round rubber legs in black, depending on the manufacturer you'll find these in large, medium, small, mini and micro. I like to use the mini, simply because they move in the water. If I went to the small size, the fly might float a little better, I want the movement of the legs, I think that's much more important than the extra floatability.

Another very important thing now, what I'm doing here is I'm putting that thread right in the middle, right dead center in the middle of that thread platform. All the wraps that we're going to do now on the legs and on the indicator, each wrap must go directly on top of the previous wrap. No lateral movement back and forth. That ensures that these legs will kick the way that we want them to go. What I'm going to do, you can do either side first; we want these legs to be right above along the hook shank. I'm just going to hold it in there. These pieces are cut about one inch long and we'll trim the length, trap it, and I'm going to go once, twice and I can actually, if they're too high, I can pull them back down, I'm playing a little more and in this case I am going to -- and you can see how they're freed out or kicked, that's what we want.

If in the process of tying these, if you do wrap laterally instead of each wrap directly on the previous wrap, the legs will cross, they'll come back.

Now, we have the first set of legs on. Now, what we're going to do is do the same thing on the farer side. At this we're going to actually hold up here, a little more on the top of the fly, because as I mentioned before this term thread torque, and something that can be used against you or you can use it to your advantage. Here what we're going to do is just come over to the top and grab that, and as the thread rolls goes around the fly, it's actually going to take the material and wrap it around into the position that we want.

So, there we have our almost, our two wraps. And then by the way, if in the process of doing this if the legs cross and then I have perfectly spread that flared off the way that you wanted, don't worry about it, go with it, the fish don't care.