Amy: This Mike and we’re at Zip Zap Hair in San Francisco and this is his client, Graham, who is a Customer Service Representative, right?
Amy: How do you fell about your hair?
Graham: It’s pretty bad.
Amy: Oh don’t be too hard on yourself. It’s not too bad at least you ‘ve got hair, right?
Mike: There he goes.
Amy: Thank you for being a model and so what’s going on with the back of his head?
Mike: Well you have a neck line that’s you know not that uncommon but it is hard to work with. As you see we have cowlick swirling this way and is this neck hair or is this real hair, we don’t know but we’re going to calm everything down and take a look at it at it’s natural state before we start.
Comb everything down first to asses the state of the neckline.
And that’s generally the hardest thing to do is the neckline, the tapering, so we’re going to pick this up just like this and see what’s going on under here.
Amy: What’s going on?
Mike: Well this is swirling this way.
Amy: It is.
Amy: Do you know about your cowlick.
Amy: He’s got no idea.
Mike: Most people don’t know about the back. Most guys don’t know about the back.
Amy: Yeah, so you’re going to disguise it so it doesn’t even look like a cowlick.
Mike: Yeah, we’re going to leave this alone for right now because we can always cut it off later, once you cut it’s gone so we’re going to see I think you cut it himself too which happens a lot with guys.
Amy: Did you cut it yourself?
Mike: Did you shave your neck?
Graham: I’m going to say I cut it myself.
Mike: That happens.
Graham: I don’t want to get my girlfriend in trouble.
Amy: Oh you don’t want to get your girlfriend in trouble?
Mike: So sometimes people go too high with the neck line which can always be another challenge.
Amy: Right so how do you know where the neck line should start.
Mike: Well first we’re going to cut the hair kind of leaving this area right here alone almost and then when you get closer to the end of the cut we can see what we’re working with.
Style the neckline last.
Mike: This technique is the clipper over comb technique and we’re going to go right across and we’re going to take that section out. Comb it back down.
Technique: Clipper Over Comb
Mike: You can kind of see where the cut. The idea is to blend this together so we’re going to work in this panel right through here, right through there so we’re going to comb it down again. Pick it up, kind of leave that alone again and remember to leave that neckline alone and we’re going to run clipper just right across the comb just like that.
Amy: Well add some of the common mistakes people make with the scissor or what was it?
Mike: The clip over comb.
Amy: The clipper over comb.
Mike: The most common mistake is I’m going to have the clippers turned off so I don’t actually do it, but you see when the comb comes up like this the clippers have to be right on top of the comb over here, but if the clippers are down like this.
Amy: It might cut the hair underneath.
Amy: And then it will make a bad ridge. Don’t make that mistake.
Mike: There’s a lot more room or error if we have a small comb.
Tip: Make sure the clippers don’t run too low across the comb.
So we’re going to use a nice flat comb. There’s no ridge on it you know.
Use a flat, wide comb with the clippers.
Mike: So here we go again and comb it down. We’re going to work on this panel now over here, same idea and it’s a pretty quick technique. You’re just going to go up and comb it down. Remember to comb your hair down and we’re leaving that out of the picture again and we’re just going to cut up here. We don’t want to cut this yet because this is the part that sometimes sticks up on people.
Now this is just a rough length here we’re doing now so we’re going to fine tune it afterwards. You can do this with scissor over comb too but the scissor over comb is fast and pretty easy. Now you want to work with dry hair and not wet because wet hair sticks together more and when you cut it you’re cutting big groups of hair at a time so you want to make sure the hair is fanned out first and then cut it.
Use the clippers on dry hair.
Mike: So now we’re working closely through the neckline here so rather than just taking the clippers and blocking it off, a lot of people do that, we’re going to take the clippers here and just do a little, just play around a little bit, you know take a little bit off and see what’s happening in his neck. This is a real challenging neckline here so we’re just going to play around with it taking little bits at a time so you can see, we don’t want to take too much off at once.
Amy: You’re sculpting it are you?
Amy: Like a piece of artwork.
Mike: Yes it is a piece of artwork. Every haircut is a piece of artwork. So here we’re going to just pick this up and just make kind of a soft line. See we’re just picking that up a little bit. Now we can close it so it gets a little shorter and get some of this fuzz out of it right here and hit this by taking care of.
We’ll go over this again with the trimmers to make it really close. What you see right here that is left the same now. We want to leave as much hair as we can there because it’s kind of a void area. Hair really doesn’t grow right there.
Mike: So we’re going to comb all that down.
Amy: So you’re compensating for the challenging cowlick.
Mike: Yes ma’am. So you see it’s never going to be totally perfect but you know we’re going to work with it and build what we can here.
Amy: Give it the illusion of perfection.
Mike: Yeah, just much as we can there so now what I’m going to do is to go back with the thinning sheers. We also call them the blending sheers and we’re just kind of kind of hit this a little bit right there just to kind of weaken that so kind of blends in more of this.
Technique: Thinning/Blending Shears.
Mike: So we’re just going to have more of an illusion of being fine all the way so wherever it’s heavy we’re just going to take a little bit out. So now around the ear we’re just going to keep the teeth down like this and scoop it up. Pull it out.