Macro Photography with DS on our cameras is completely controlled by the lens. I know that your Mode Dial here does have macro mode, you can turn this to macro. The thing is with the Macro Mode is that everything is automated but still it’s not going to allow you to focus any closer than any other mode would because again, it’s all related to the lens. So my recommendation is to keep your Mode Dial set to P for program so it gets you the most flexibility while still maintaining a balanced exposure very, very easily. The camera will set the Aperture and the Shutter Speed but you can control the ISO and White Balance; depending on your lighting condition, go ahead and set the ISO. This is a macro shot; you’re going to be very, very close to your subject so you don’t want to use the flash, especially with DSLR cameras. Because you have a large lens, the lens will cast a shadow from the flash on your subject.

When you’re too close to the subject, the lens will create a shadow on half of the picture. So you really don’t want to be using the flash if at all possible. If you do, then you’ll probably want to back away from the subject and zoom in as much as you can so the flash is not blocked by the lens. Some lenses will produce a better macro when they’re zoom out like this and some lenses will produce a better macro somewhere in the middle. Others when you’re all the way in the wide angle. It really depends on which lens you’re using and you can try and see what works best for you. Again, if it’s the wide angle then you don’t want to use the flash because it will have a shadow cast on half of the picture.

Basically, that’s pretty much it; just remember, set your ISO, press the ISO Button right here at the top and set this accordingly. If it’s outdoors, you’re taking a picture of a flower and it’s Broad Daylight, 100 is just fine. If you’re indoors, then you’re going to want to use something higher like 400 or 800.

Again, this will increase the sensitivity of the camera to the available light because we’re not using the flash; this can be very important to maintain a faster Shutter Speed. Your White Balance is right here; press the WB button and choose the White Balance accordingly. If you’re outdoors, daylight is great. If you’re in a shady spot and there’s a lot of foliage or you're underneath some trees and you’re taking a picture of a flower and go ahead and use shade or cloudy in order to warm up the tones and the image a little bit; I’ll go back to Daylight and press set. That’s really all there is to it, there is no Macro Mode, again, as I mentioned it’s all depending on the lens that you’re using. So if you don’t know how close you can get with the lens, it’s going to be a little bit of a trial and error type of Photography. Place yourself close to the subject; you have to look through the view finder, press the Shutter Button halfway; see if the camera can focus on the subject. If it can’t find the focus point then you need to backup a little bit; press the Shutter Button halfway again to try and focus on the subject again.

Again, if you’re too close, keep backing up and refocusing the camera by pressing the Shutter Button halfway every time. Once you get the camera to a position where it can focus on your subject then you can go ahead and take the picture.

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