This is a self extracting crank on a Shimano Octalink type single bottom bracket. And so first of all, we put this wrench tooth ring spanner as they call that in Britain. Put that on there and then that one fits on like that. Now in order to get this other cup out, you need this tool, okay. And you can see inside there, there are a number of different things. First of all, there is a little seal. You really want to do this over a bucket or some sort of a basin, because there are lots of separate little balls in and needles in here that can just absolutely drive you blizzard when they start falling out. And now this is the drive side this is now called the fix cup, because this cup stays in place and I don't actually have to take it out as long as I am just over hauling the bottom bracket. It's probably going to make things a little easier so.

Now I need to put my Park BBT 8 tool on there again. We are going clockwise to loosen it. There is a standard 68 millimeter width English threaded bottom bracket shell. There is nothing different about the bike that predetermines it for any particular type of bottom bracket. You could put an integrated spindle bottom bracket, you could put one like this a loose ball bearing one, you can put a cartridge in there, you can put anything you want. You will notice there is a spacer here, if it had a Shimano E Type Front Derailleur that goes around the bottom bracket shell, then the spacer would not be here and instead you would have the bracket for the E type Front Derailleur. Pull the spindle out. This is just a seal to keep junk from falling down the tubes. This seal also was on the outer end,it's lip seal that engages this other lip seal. This is a rubber lip seal. This is a harder plastic that sits over it like a Labyrinth kind of an arrangement.

I am now about to clean up, the overhaul is old XTR bottom bracket. This was the original XTR when Shimano first came out with the pipe spindle Octalink Splint, engagement. All bottom brackets before that had been the Square Taper type. So this was the original of this new style and Shimano introduced it with a loose ball bearing system of ball bearing and needle bearing. The needle bearings were required because the spindle is so big that the balls had to be so small that there just wasn't enough surface area to really provide a good bearing in any kind of longevity. So hence, the needle bearings came along too. These do get dirty quite fast and you have to do this pretty frequently. For a home mechanic, you just don't want to be trying to absorb too much grease with your solvent so just wipe it. In this particular type of bottom bracket usually the bottom bracket you would have the surface for the ball bearings would be way out here. And you got bigger ball bearings and they would sit out there in this system.

The ball bearings sit against this edge here and then it's the needle bearings that are in there shiny broader part inside and here is where you need to be very careful, because you don't loose these, loose any of the needles, and this needle bearing retainer obviously a lots of move already fallen out and it's very easy to loose them. And here is the bearing similarly, I am just going to do a little pre-wipe. So you got these two little circlips; these are the outer piece to the Labyrinth seal. All the parts that are going to really come in are be critical moving parts. Those are cleaned further where cleaned further with a clean rag. What I have left in here are just the bearings, the ball bearings and the needle bearings, just put a little bit of this chain brake, chain clean solvent. It's a good idea to wear, to wear safety glasses whenever you are dealing with solvent. So I am going to scrub on every thing getting these polished as well as I can.

I am going to take on my clean parts dry them off as well as I can. Now at this point, I am going to do a final clean with the clean rag on the parts that are in this container. So now time to assemble all these parts, slide the grease. And really make sure your finger are clean because if you are on a too much trouble to build this up with grid in there.

Now I am going to take the balls one at a time and press them into the container here. Once the retainer is on the spindle it's more difficult for the balls to fall out of the retainer so. Okay so now, got all those bearings in got spindle is marked left and right, right meaning drive side so this is the side that's going to be go towards the paddles. So now I am going to put the needle bearings in, at this point there is number of ways of doing this but I just really wanted to make sure that I don't touch this beautifully cleaned bearings inside of the bottom bracket shell wards. It's dirty in there so, as you going to see this whole set up is all helped together pretty well and it's turning smoothly and I am going to take one of these plastic circlips and put it in there. And I am just going to push this circlip in the place. Okay so those parts are all staying in place and I am going to put this into the fix cup so means it's fixed in one spot and just want to tight. Basically as tight as you can get it.

Now I am going to go through the same process on the other side, the non drive side. Now we can install the bottom bracket. Fix cup is already tightened in I need to put this on here. So there is the E type spacer okay just put that in. I am now snugging up the bottom bracket until, well as soon as I start feeling resistance of that bearings against the cups. Put on the Labyrinth seals before you put the crank's arms on. It's good idea to put some grease around them it just help block ladder and grid from crawling around.

Now bottom bracket is basically snugged up in place. I am going to push this Labyrinth seal in as far as I can here and it's got the inners overlap with the one underneath it. That's what the crank arms,the right crank arm now I am tightening it on then its easier for me to determine if there is play in the bottom bracket when I have the leverage of the crank arm but as I tighten this on, it really need to feel for when it engages its swings. The torque's peck is 285 to 435 inch pounds. I will go ahead and do that 430. you would not if you didn't have it lined up because it wouldn't go on very far before I tightened up completely this way.

You only get may be, a turn out of the bolt before it got the 0:08:43.6 tight. The right crank arm is now tied on there. So I am going to start to push the chain in so it's not touching and this don't want to rub make sure that this can turn free other chain and now I am feeling for any kind of side aside play in the bearings and there is not any. At the same time I am feeling for a smoothness of movement which is plenty of that. So that's good.

Ideally what you want is the loose your setting so, the bearing can move freely . First you put the tooth lock ring spanner on and I have to move this bolt on a stand okay. So lock ring spanners engaged and then I then I used this DDT 8 tool to make sure of that I don't tighten that adjustable cup in and I now have the adjustment that's now that's tighten firmly. Now check again feel for any play in the system there isn't any. Turning smoothly this point I am going to push Labyrinth seal in better and again I am holding the adjustable cup from turning with the DDT tool. Well, I use the tooth lock ring spanner and make sure that lock ring spanner stays on that lock ring. Now here again there are notches lined up with the axis of the crank arm and what I want to see is that it finds those splines. And now that we are again on one of the same torque setting, we are trying to set this at 430. Finally that crank is completely over hauled.